2021 at First Glance

I have now tasted a few 2021s, and while I’ve tried to avoid sampling too many while still tasting the big, intense 2020s, the time has come for first impressions.

I saw the harvest, participated in the harvest, and watched the winemaking. Now I am following the elevage as part of the process of completing my first full Burgundy vintage from grape to bottle.

So let me begin by saying: This is not the greatest vintage ever made in Burgundy!

However, if the viticulture was prudent, meticulous sorting and vinification can save a lot these days. Tasting the finished product does in some cases promise charming, somewhat light-footed wines that will provide pleasure and even (occasionally) joy.

Light-footed? Or light…

There is no doubt that 2021 comes after a line-up of big vintages of substantial character – 2018, 2019, and 2020 are not lithe ballerinas. While they can seem elegant, these are big vintages. The 2020s have lovely freshness, but also an intensity that is way greater than the 2021s.

They should not be compared, and one of the worst things that could happen was if a vigneron tried to extract density and intensity from the 2021s. They are not built for it, and light extraction was needed to ensure transparent, energetic wines.

Clean or not

The harvest revealed many issues, and thorough sorting was needed almost everywhere to avoid unclean flavours, rot, and mildew.

As usual, most top-end domaines did this work. But sadly, there are still producers in Burgundy that make wine from “dirty” grapes. Be careful, and do not accept wines with off flavours. There is a dearth of wines on the market, and demand is strong. You will be offered some awful wines; believe me, they are out there waiting for you.

A vigneron’s vintage; taste, and be critical

Firstly, if possible ensure that the viticulture was sound (this was not easy in 2021). Next, that sorting was thorough (even more difficult). Finally, ensure that the wines have energy and vividness, and that they are transparent and pure.

Avoid extracted wines with dark, inky fruit, as the vintage in my view will not carry these darker wines through to beautiful maturity.

2021 is a light vintage. Let it be light, and hopefully joyful!