What a line-up of visits over the last few weeks to taste the 2021s: Cathiard, DRC, Liger-Belair, Mugneret-Gibourg, and now Cécile Tremblay.
Despite 2021 being a difficult vintage, most of the producers I have visited have produced exciting, vivid, and elegant wines. This just goes to confirm that I only taste the top 5% or so of wines produced in Burgundy.
Wine is about joy and energy, and while the 2021s don’t have the density and greatness of the 2019s, they have emotional qualities and hedonistic value that can not be described by Parker points or any other metric.
Cécile Tremblay has nailed the ’21s, as the vintage’s fine delicacy of character brings out a filigreed side of her wines. They are more delicate and vivid than the 2018s, 2019s, and 2020s.
Some background on Cécile Tremblay
Cécile Tremblay began her endeavor in 2002-03, taking over some of the family vineyards and starting to produce wine.
The vineyards originally come from the Edouard Jayer estate – Henri Jayer’s uncle. Edouard Jayer was a cooper in Nuits-Saint-Georges before the First World War and Cécile Tremblay’s great-grandfather. In 1921, he married Esther Fournier, who came from a vigneron family. They established their estate based on vineyards from the Fournier inheritance and expanded their holdings over the years.
In 1950, the vineyards were shared among their five children. Renée – the youngest daughter – kept her share, renting them out in metayage (share-cropping). Renée’s only daughter, Marie Annick, and her husband expanded the estate while still keeping it leased to metayage until 2002.
After her studies, their daughter Cécile decided to take over the family vineyards as their leases expired – and thus was born the delightful eponymous domaine in early 2003.
As mentioned, the vineyards prior to 2003 were leased to other growers in metayage, but Cécile was able to take back 3 hectares in the beginning, and will eventually take back more as the metayage agreements expire.
The approach at Domaine Cécile Tremblay is organic and biodynamic. It was certified organic in 2005, and in 2016 the biodynamic certification was attained.
More about Domaine Cécile Tremblay here:
- Visit to Cécile Tremblay – Tasting the 2022s from Cask
- Visit to Domaine Cécile Tremblay – Tasting the 2021s from Cask
- Visit to Cécile Tremblay – tasting the 2019s from cask
The crystal-clear 2021s
Vosne-Romanée was badly hit by the April ‘ 21 frost due to an unfortunate confluence of circumstances. Cecile’s vines had quite a bit of damage.
That said, Cécile always makes intense, vivacious wines. They are exuberant, with rich mid-palate fruit and lovely, generous intensity. This was the perfect stylistic match for the 2021 vintage, as its fresh backbone offers clean energy and vivacity to the wines – the vintage at its best.
Tasting notes for the 2021s from Cécile Tremblay
And so, to work.
Domaine Cécile Tremblay Bourgogne Côte d`Or La Croix Blanche 2021
The Bourgogne La Croix Blanche is from the area below Chambolle and Vosne. It is a vivid wine, lively and energetic, and the intensity of the Tremblay effort is impressive for the vintage. What a fresh treat!
(Drink From 2023) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 21/11/2022 –
Domaine Cécile Tremblay Morey-Saint-Denis 2021
From the bottom of the village near the domaine we have this vivid Morey village. It comes from a terroir that suits the vintage well, with the freshness of the 2021 acidity and energy lifting the slightly dense Morey feel. A lovely Morey village, and a vin de soif, although its availability will be limited, as the Tremblay wines have become very sought after.
(Drink From 2029) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 21/11/2022 –
Domaine Cécile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny 2021
The Chambolle village comes from a blend of vineyards – Aux Eschance, Les Fremières, and Les Maladières. It’s deep and intense, with the vintage’s lovely acidity. This has a clear Chambolle character, along with fine intensity for the vintage. It’s a gorgeous wine that leaves you with a big smile. It seems like Cécile has a special gift with Chambolle.
(Drink From 2031) – Fine – (90-91p) – Tasted 21/11/2022 –
Domaine Cécile Tremblay Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes 2021
The Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is quite a step up from the two other villages, coming from Les Jacquines and Les Communes. Here we have beautiful, silky, Vosne tension; intense, yet elegantly light-footed with zen-like balance. A whole bouquet of Vosne spices, including hints of cloves and allspice, combine with peonies and pink and white roses. Cool and energetic.
(Drink From 2031) – Fine – (90-92p) – Tasted 21/11/2022 –
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