A new stop on my tasting calendar, Domaine François Buffet is a classic Volnay estate producing enjoyable, light-footed Volnays and Pommards. Marc-Olivier Buffet has managed this estate since 2005, and is the seventh generation at this fine producer.
I’ve been planning to visit here for years, as a good friend of mine imported the Buffet wines into Scandinavia and he always recommended them. Sadly, my friend Mads Højlund (1976-2023; previously one of the best sommeliers in Denmark) passed away much too soon earlier this year, reminding me to focus on the important, joyful stuff and take care of friends and loved ones. Mads will be missed, but his wines and passion will live on.
This was in my thoughts when I entered Domaine François Buffet with my friend Karine Chang, reminding me that Burgundy is all about friends and relationships, not about prices and speculation.
The Buffet estate
Marc-Olivier Buffet is the main player at Domaine François Buffet, and he brings to bear all of his passion and expertise for and in grape-growing and wines.
Today the domaine farms more than 7.5 hectares, and produces 15 appellations using grapes grown in Volnay and Pommard, as well as some great parcels of vines in Savigny-les-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses.
Marc-Olivier succeeded his father Jacques (born 1939), who notably oversaw 40 harvests, from 1965 to 2004, at the estate.
Before him, Jacques’ father François Buffet (1911-1965), was at the wheel. He was the first to introduce a Bobard tractor manufactured in Beaune!
The family goes back through Léon Buffet (1873-1953), François’ father; and Leon’s dad Claude Buffet (1813-1894). Going back even further in time, Jean-Baptiste Buffet and Claude Buffet are the sources of the family’s arrival in Volnay in 1692, when it moved from Pommard. A giant leap for winekind.
The Buffet style
The wines are transparent, lightly extracted, and light-footed. They are elegant and refined with a pure note of pinot noir.
The 2022s are perfect examples of this, with a terrific balance of red fruit and intensity. They are very much Volnay, with lovely elegance.
The wines have enough concentration to maintain focus, but this may not always be the case in the lesser years. That said, 2022 wines are lovely when made like this.
Tasting of the 2022s
The wines were tasted from cask on May 12.
François Buffet, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Narbantons 2022
The Savigny Narbantons shows all the strong points of the vintage. It’s fresh, vivid, lively, although currently with a slight hardness from a recent dose of sulphur. A fine introduction to the house style.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 11/05/2023 – 
François Buffet, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses 2022
I have a soft spot for Pernand, and even in a light-acid light vintage like 2022, Les Vergelesses has a delightful freshness. It has a saline, edgy minerality that always sparks my interest and attention. This appellation really deserves more attention.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 11/05/2023 –
François Buffet, Volnay 2022
The 2022 Volnay is a true delight. It’s firm yet delicate, with a refined touch, just how we love our Volnays. It is on the feminine side, and again, has a trace of recently added sulphur. With intense fruit and good balance (I adore the 2022 fruit), this is an effortless display of pinot joy.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 11/05/2023 –
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- A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion
- A truly hedonistic wine – lively and enjoyable
- A Vin Vif - fresh, energetic and with a light appearance
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