Visit to Domaine Génot-Boulanger – Tasting the Red 2022s

This is a new domaine for me, and therefore I prefer to focus on its style and quality rather than on the individual wines. I will attempt to do both to a degree, but as a new format, I think this is possibly more in tune with our busy world: starting wider and then zooming in.

Domaine Génot-Boulanger

Domaine Génot-Boulanger was founded in 1974 by Charles-Henri and Marie Génot-Boulanger. It is just across the road from Dominique Lafon and his impressive property, and has been living a quiet life under the ownership of the Génot-Boulanger family.

Today it is Aude et Guillaume Lavollée who run the estate. Aude is the founders’ granddaughter.

The wines have been organically certified since 2018, so quality is definitely improving.

Génot-Boulanger’s wines

The domaine is making good reds and whites. For me, the whites are more interesting, as their terroirs pack a bit more punch. The reds are good, but lack a bit of edge and excitement, again perhaps due to the more modest terroirs.

The whites are made with fairly hard pressing, meaning the wines have an edgier character. This is presumably why Génot-Boulanger can work without Diam corks or exorbitant loads of sulphur, as the anti-oxidant effect of the hard pressing (more lees) helps protect the wines.

The whites have a vivid, slightly edgy taste that works for me. But one won’t find the silky notes you get in a Lafon wine.

The reds are on the more discreet side, not very flamboyant, and with the extraction in some cases taken to the limit (but fortunately not beyond). Sexy? Not always. But nonetheless good wines you can trust and enjoy.

As always, let the heart ratings guide you.

Tasting notes in a more efficient way

I write and read a lot, and sometimes there’s not much to say about a wine aside from, “It’s good.” But this sentiment is covered by the points and the hearts. So instead of writing a dissertation that will give you very little, I will try to be more efficient and focus on the more exciting terroirs and wines.

It should be more efficient, but we shall see.

To the notes!

The Génot-Boulanger reds are on the charming, but somewhat controlled side. This means they are not full-blown whole-cluster bombs. Neither are they highly expressive and loaded with biodynamic energy. They are competent, and carefully give you a good pinot experience.

If this is a style that appeals to you, you now know where to look. As always, some terroirs have more energy and vividness than others. It’s all down to personal taste – luckily.

The wines were tasted on November 8. In addition to those noted, I also tasted the Pommard Vieilles Vignes and Pommard Clos Blanc.

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Mercurey En Sazenay 2022

The Sazenay is delicate, juicy, and light-footed, with good concentration. It’s elegant and energetic. Showing good tension, the use of 10-15% new oak contributes to a well-made wine.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Volnay 2022

The Volnay is a nice vin de soif, although ideally the extraction could be gentler, as the yields were on the higher side. Regardless, this is a lovely pinot.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (87-88p)

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Beaune Greves 2022

A big wine, powerful and intense, with great staying power for the vintage. Classic Greves.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good+ (91p) –

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Volnay Ronceret 2022

The 2022 Volnay Ronceret is a fruit bomb. Raspberries and strawberries grace the bouquet and the mid-palate. It is beautifully elegant, lightly extracted, and open. Really enjoyable!

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (91-92p) –

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