Visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – Tasting the 2023 whites

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has been through a transformation since they took over the management of a large part of the legendary Bonneau du Martray estate

Domaine de la Romanee Conti took over approximtely 50% of the white vineyards from Bonneau du Martray on a metayage agreement …. ensuring that DRC suddenly becomes one of the largest holder of white Grand Cru vineyards.

At the same time the management of Domaine de la Romanée has changed and is now the responsibility of Perrine Fenal (from 2019) who has moved into the place of the late Henry-Frédéric Roch; and last but not least Bertrand de Villaine (from 2021), who has taken over from his uncle Aubert de Villaine.

Furthermore, Alexandre Bernier has taken over as winemaker over from Bernard Noblet, and one really feels fresh new winds are sweeping through Vosne-Romanée.

Traditions certainly are upheld, but changes nonetheless happen, now as before. No one makes great wines year after year without adapting their viticulture and vinification to climate change and other substantial challenges.

A new winemaker marks focus on the whites

The style of DRC’s wines was in the hands of the Noblet family for decades, first under Andre Noblet from 1946-1984, and then with Bernard Noblet from 1984 until he retired in 2018.

In 2018, Bernard Noblet was replaced by Alexandre Bernier, who had previously been his assistant, thus ensuring both continuity and change.

The style – and the conditions in which the wines are produced – no doubt evolved under the very long Noblet reign. While some parameters have been stable, important, but subtle, changes have appeared over time.

Now there’s a new winemaker at the wheel, although also saying that, he’s been at DRC for many years. I tasted the 2011 vintage with Alexandre Bernier back in 2012, on my very first visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.