Visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti : Tasting the 2023 whites

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has been through a transformation since they took over the management of a large part of the legendary Bonneau du Martray estate.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti took over approximtely 50% of the white vineyards from Bonneau du Martray on a métayage agreement, making DRC as one of the largest holder of white Grand Cru vineyards.

In 2019, the management of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti changed and is now the responsibility of Perrine Fenal. Perrine took the place of the late Henry-Frédéric Roch; and last but not least, Bertrand de Villaine (from 2021), who has taken over from his uncle, Aubert de Villaine.

Furthermore, Alexandre Bernier has taken over as winemaker over from Bernard Noblet, and one really feels fresh new winds are sweeping through Vosne-Romanée.

Traditions are upheld, but changes happen nonetheless. No one makes great wines year after year without adapting their viticulture and vinification to climate change and other substantial challenges.

A new winemaker marks focus on the whites

The style of DRC’s wines was in the hands of the Noblet family for decades, first under André Noblet from 1946-1984, and then with Bernard Noblet from 1984 until he retired in 2018.

In 2018, Bernard Noblet was replaced by Alexandre Bernier, who had previously been his assistant, thus, ensuring both continuity and change.

The style – and the conditions in which the wines are produced – undoubtedly evolved under the very long Noblet reign. While some parameters have been stable and important, subtle changes have appeared over time.

Now, there’s a new winemaker at the wheel, though he’s been at DRC for many years. I tasted the 2011 vintage with Alexandre Bernier back in 2012, on my very first visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

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