Collins Corner #13 – when communes collide

Understanding French wine; Begin with the geography lesson. Such is the first grade of the Cote d’Or, pull out the maps. Each town is encapsuled with its own boundries, Communes. The logical second step is to experiment and learn these personalities via the wine.

Now it gets complicated. The more you look, the more complicated it gets.

There appears little consensus in the components, sparse reason to rationalize inclusion. Some have split personalities, {Chambolle?} facing in opposite directions. Others seem to border at a location solely to split a big prize. {Montrachet?} Corners are appropriated from a mountain {Corton} to share in the fame {Ladoix, Pernand}

One wonders whether the system was thought up by Theologians.

One borderline is so blurred that I have ceased to identify it except by my own title, “Beaumard”. Within its borders it captures one of my favorite stretches of vines. It is a geographic monoculture of the gentle slope called “Montagne Saint Desire!”.

Loosely defined, the core includes Beaune,Clos des Mouches and Pommard Petits Epenots. Clos des Mouches is a distinct personality. I have read some wine experts lightly criticize this hill as ‘lacking excitement’.

I think this lack of vision is more related to ‘premier cru palate fatigue’, trying to sort though a rating system for 44 such classified vineyards, and I liberate the Clos from this task by placing it in “Beaumard”, where its spicy fullness compliments its stable mate, Petits Epenots.

PPE comes with its set of misunderstandings, the implied inferiority to ‘Grands’ Epenots is not borne out in wine, and its appearance in nearly flat vineyards resisting the tendency to associate elevation with improved quality. Once again, it’s what is beneath the surface that counts, and the Petits E delivers.

Epenots is no secret. The fame goes back hundreds of years. Epenots finesses the tendency of Pommard to become a bit coarse, or ‘blocky’, under heavy handed direction.

The third star in this ring is due to the upper part of Mouches [lord of the ‘bees’, not flies] born of the soil change at the top of the vineyard, a chameleon like transformation into a home for Chardonnay. Clos des Mouches blanc, like any great expression for the grape, is not like other whites from the cote. Is Full bodied somewhat mineral, with an exotic spice[?] overlay. It’s flavors distinguish it from any other white Burgundy.

There are a wealth of riches available to the consumer. The excellent firm of Joseph Drouhin appeared nearly obsessed with the Clos des Mouches in the 1920’s, acquiring over 40% of the vineyard.

Promotional success has led more than one client in America to think of it as a Drouhin monopole, but there are lovely red and whites from many sources. I followed for years an old plot of red possessed by Jean Garaudet with pleasure.

Pommard Petits Epenots has its roots in many great cellars; Comte Armand ‘Clos de Epenaux’ the most famous. The Hospices de Beaune dedicates a cuvee [Dom Goblet] from Petits Epenots. The list is extensive. Current vintages are full of great examples.

Enthusiasts of Burgundy are frequently familiar with this location, split in the middle, but think outside the boundries. Clos des Mouches and Epenots, brothers with a unique story from the hill of Saint Desire, crowned in white.

A hidden trilogy of compatriots, awaiting supper. Count me in!

CRC