Collins Corner #11 -The core of the Beaune appellation

Middle earth, full o’ stones may best describe this section of Beaune. The symbolic Grand cru site is Beaune-Greves, replete with history back to the early church foundations. 

 Although it has continued to increase in size over the centuries, the spiritual center of Greves has remained captured in the label of L’Enfant Jesus, as iconic a wine label as can be found in the district. Additionally, it is a monopole [bouchard pere] of one negociant [Bouchard Pere] and, as with other single ownerships, its fortunes rise and fall with the corresponding history of the establishment. 

 The middle stones create an environment for deep rooted, powerful wines that benefit from a sophisticated touch, as do nearby vineyards of ‘les Cras’ and ‘Teurons’. When stars align the effect of these wines can be quite dramatic.  

They never fail to require serious cellaring. Many talents have been attracted to the challenge over the years, so you have the benefit of multiple interpretations at your disposal. The issue is complicated by the oversize nature of the vineyards. 

Greves was much smaller on 200 year old maps, the upper reaches of ‘Sur les Greves’ having been incorporated into Greves itself somewhere along the line. Teurons actually seems to be fragmented into at least 3 major boundaries. A certain amount of plot study would benefit refining the wine styles, as there is likely some notable differences.

I have had the best of luck in hot vintages with aggressively clean harvests. 1969, 1990, 1993, and 2005 come to mind, as is potentially 2015 and the small crop of 2016. The last 3 harvests have potentials that have not been seen for a very long time.

Sheer size is not as important as a capacity for complexity. Great Beaunes of past millennia have been described as the most ‘complete’ of wines, an admirable goal.  

As to be expected, the influence of the Hospices de Beaune weighs heavily in this area, and five notable Cuvees* include significant parcels from these vineyards. One lot, since 2004, [cuvee Pierre Floquet] is 100% ‘Les Greves’. 

{* aside from the Pierre Floquet Cuvee, the Hugues and Louis Betault Cuvee is somewhat overlooked, 1/3 Greves, with a large helping from Mignotte vineyard, a very close cousin to Cras. In the right hands, this cuvee shines.}

Consider these talents, just within these 3 vineyards…. Chateau Chorey, Germain. Tollot-Beaut. Morot, Jadot, Drouhin and Bouchard. Gambal, Croix, Montille and LaFarge. Good hunting grounds, and some big rewards.