Vincent Ledy is one of a kind: a guy with a great, unpolished talent, and a vigneron that no doubt will divide opinions amongst many wine geeks.
His old-vine intensity (most plots are older than 40 years), low-sulphur vinification and bottling, and unmanipulated fruit – no new oak – produce both an intense and a fulfilling style of wine.
To me, it’s a very gratifying style. For some, it’s too much. These are wines with individuality and character, and while Vincent is “just making his wines,” they have a strong identity that will – if you let them – thrill your hedonistic senses to the limit. What can I say? Vincent Ledy.
His products are borderline vins de nature, but not quite. They are generous with tremendous old-vine fruit, a bit like Mme. Bize-Leroy, but again, not quite.
A genius? Perhaps not in the traditional sense, yet genius takes many forms.
“A man of genius makes no mistakes; his errors are volitional and are the portals of discovery,” according to James Joyce. Again, perhaps!
The tasting in Copenhagen
On a Friday in the Danish capital, his importer introduced Vincent Ledy’s wines to some fellow Danes.
There was a lineup of mainly 2016s and 2017s, but also one wine from the 2014 vintage to tease the palates.
I have highlighted a few to try to shed light on what these wines are. This is complex, and it could be a mistake, but I will give it a try nevertheless. For the record: I have a preference for the 2017 vintage in this context.
Domaine Vincent Ledy Bourgogne Rouge 2016
Delightful, vivid, organic fruit and fine acidity – floral with perfumed fruit. Lingonberries and yellow ripe prunes are interlinked with red cherries, cloudberries and some amaretto cherries. Slight, refreshing bitterness from the cherry stones. There’s a fine mineral note in the background. Impressive intensity for this level, and fulfilling.
(Drink from 2020) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 19/06/2020 –
Domaine Vincent Ledy Chorey-les-Beaune 2016 (note from April)
The Chorey-les-Beaune from Vincent Ledy is a special cuvée that in a mysterious way brings many of the things I like about Burgundy into one enjoyable glass. Let’s face it: This is not from a seriously big terroir, although Les Beaumonts is one of the very best of Chorey. The 2016 version has, however, significant mineral weight that makes this wine interesting drinking. This, combined with good concentration and intensity of fruit, gives the wine plenty of oomph and backbone. What impresses me most is the fruit’s vivid energy; the lively, relatively dark 2016 expression spiced with some vivid yellow/orange cloudberry notes that give the wine a hedonistic lift and energy. The freshness is delightful, with an ample, vivid feel; drinking very well indeed. Perhaps not quite blowing the socks off Suckling-points-wise, but nevertheless a vin d`émotion.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 15/04/2020 –
Domaine Vincent Ledy Chorey-les-Beaune 2017
Lighter in colour and on the palate, this shows the more sensual side of the Ledy wines. Airy, fragrant and vivid, with fresh, yellow-toned fruit and hedonistic cloudberry notes spicing the more traditional cherry. This is quite a refined wine, and a unique Chorey.
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 19/06/2020 –
Domaine Vincent Ledy Savigny-les-Beaune Vieilles Vignes 2017
The Savigny-les-Beaune is from a more expressive terroir which offers significantly more support and structure than the Chorey. From the terroirs Savigny les Beaune ‘Les Connardises’ og ‘Aux Petits Lards’. Still, the fruit is vivacious and organic, with cherry notes spiced with cloudberries, and it is more focused and refined. The 2016 Savigny is almost too much – but the 2017 offers delightful sensuality and juiciness.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good+ (88-90p) – Tasted 19/06/2020 –
Domaine Vincent Ledy Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Poirets Saint Georges 2016
Ledy’s top vineyard, Les Poirets Saint Georges is located just south of Roncières in the core of the appellation to the south of the town. Very vivid and airy, although perhaps slightly over the top with VA, it has nonetheless a sensual and expressive note. It’s intense with its deep, ripe fruit from 40-year-old vines. This has an organic feel, with a high-acid profile and low sulphur.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good+ (91p) – Tasted 19/06/2020 –
Domaine Vincent Ledy NSG Les Poirets Saint Georges Vielles Vignes 2016
This one is a bit beyond me, coming from very old vines (planted in 1939) and with the very, very low yields of 2016. The colour is dark – as in very dark, almost port-like. The fruit is pure and ripe with old-vine intensity. Yet in the end it is too much for me. I wouldn’t know how to begin – much less finish – the bottle. Vincent, you are beyond my palate on this one. I do not comprehend the full dimensions of this wine.
Do I fully understand the Ledy wines? Not really; but I enjoy them enormously. Exploring the boundary between regular and more creative, naturally styled wines is both complex and interesting.
In Denmark, Domaine Vincent Ledy’s wines are imported by Wine in Vein.