The wild one: Jérémy Recchione

Just looking at Jérémy Recchione’s labels one sees the edge – and the passion.

This is, of course, my interpretation, but somehow the provocative nature of the labels and the lively, energetic wines go very well together.

The labels attract attention and focus. So do the wines. They started out as organic wines with little sulphur, but evolved further in 2018 and 2019 into wines made and bottled with no sulphur.

In this article, I will introduce you to the 2017 wines. In the next instalment, I will go through the 2018s – wild and wilder.

The wines that impressed

I have not yet visited Jérémy Recchione, as Covid is shaking up my travel plans. Still, one mustn’t complain, as long as the glass is brimming with interesting wines from friends – and even foes.

A propos of this, I want to thank friends from far and near for the delivery of samples, and for arranging tastings from time to time. It’s a big help.

This time, it was my friends from Rufus Vin who discovered Jérémy Recchione quite recently and wanted to show the wines to friends and restaurateurs.

The tasting was held at my favourite Copenhagen restaurant, Enomania, and was a festive afternoon with friends and fans of Enomania’s owner, Damiano Alberti. What a great place.

Jérémy Recchione in brief

Jérémy began his vigneron career in 2010, working for Sylvan Cholet in Meursault, so he has around 10 years of experience under his belt. He previously worked for Pierre Naigeon, but he’s also accumulated knowledge and experience working for Mark Haisma and others working out of Pierre Naigeon’s facility in St. Philibert.

The first vintage Jérémy made under his own label was 2013, and while production is expanding somewhat, the business is still quite small.

To create an overview, Jérémy made the following wines in the 2018 vintage.

• Bourgogne Aligoté “skin contact”
• Chardonnay
• Saint Romain
• Gevrey Chambertin
• Fixin 1er cru “les Hervelets”
• Pétiliant Naturel Gamay
• Pétiliant Naturel Aligoté

The 2018s and 2019s are made without sulphur, so changes and adjustments are happening chez Recchione.

First out, however, are the 2017s bottled with a limited amount of sulphur – around 10mg/l. This was my starting point.

The tasting the 2017s at Enomania

As mentioned, Rufus Vin held a small tasting and Friday luncheon with friends and other good people enjoying the fine atmosphere at Enomania. For me, no other restaurant in Denmark can boast such wonderful ambience.

We tasted the following three wines:

Jérémy Recchione Saint Romain 2017

The 2017 is a big wine with an expressive, expansive, slightly reductive nose which also features some complex, deep notes from the lees. Palate-wise, it is rich, with its classic Saint Romain sweetness beautifully complementing the lobster-based sauce in the first dish. This has a fine, deep, stony/chalky minerality with a slightly saline hint. One of the most interesting Saint Romains I have tasted.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 03/09/2020 –

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Jérémy Recchione Gevrey-Chambertin 2017

The Gevrey-Chambertin is brilliant and lively, with very energetic, sparkling fruit. This is an organic wine, low on sulphur, with a very open fruit expression. The Gevrey is from the Creux Brouillard terroir located below the D974 below the southern part of the village. It’s a classic organic Gevrey with vivacious fruit and lively acidity. If I have to choose between the two reds, this is the preferred – albeit lesser – wine. A true hedonistic beauty. Love the definition of the fruit.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 03/09/2020 –

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Jérémy Recchione Fixin 1er cru Les Hervelets 2017

The Fixin Les Hervelets – not Les Arvelets – comes from the vineyard neighbouring the Gevrey towards the north and Couchey. It’s a bigger, more generous wine than the Gevrey, but is perhaps lacking a bit of the Gevrey sparkle and energy, as is sometimes seen in the northernmost appellations. But this will definitely do: One of the better – if not one of the best – Fixin 1ers crus I have tasted from 2017. There’s a lovely organic feeling and vibe.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good+ – (89-91p) – Tasted 03/09/2020 –

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I’m really looking forward to visiting Jérémy Recchione. The style, attack and courage of this producer show great promise. To be continued with the 2018s.

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In Denmark, Jérémy Recchione is represented by Rufus Vin Aps.