A visit to Antoine de la Bigne at La Pierre Ronde is always a treat. Antoine might not have the greatest of terroirs, and while his wines are great in many ways, they are not shouting and pushing this. They are subtle and delicate with an unusual intellectual stance.
The La Pierre Ronde wines require reflection … and yet, they remain effortlessly enjoyable. The tension becomes a natural part of the wine … not simply to be admired, but to be enjoyed.
In other words, ultra delicate wines that offer you the joy and render themselves to the food and the hedonistic enjoyment …
These wines are very enjoyable, and whenever I spot them on a wine list, I plunge in and enjoy.
Background
I have known Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne for many years, since he was a leading figure at Domaine Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet.
In the 2021 vintage, he launched his new négociant business La Pierre Ronde. Now, we have reached the 2023 vintage.
My expectations were high, and I was not disappointed!
Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne
Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne has a scientific education from French universities in general sciences, agronomy, and oenology. He graduated in 1999 from the elite Ecole Polytechnique in Paris. Antoine also holds a M.Sc. in Agronomy (AgroParisTech), a Master of Viticulture, as well as the French National Diploma of Oenology (Montpellier SupAgro).
Antoine is a specialist in biodynamic viticulture and has worked on several Burgundy estates as a consultant, helping each towards the holy grail of biodynamic viticulture.
He has been involved in producing high-quality wine for years, but now, he has taken a big step with his own business, La Pierre Ronde.
The project is based on acquired grapes, and hence, the fruit was not biodynamic in its inaugural vintage, 2021. But given Antoine’s knowledge, it certainly tastes like very good grapes … even in the difficult ’21 vintage and further on in 2022 and 2023.
La Pierre Ronde’s style
The wines from this estate are made with a steady and gentle hand, and this really shows in samples from both cask and amphora. These are airy, refined wines; effortless, and with beautiful brilliance. They are classy, and this estate already shows tremendous potential.”
I think this was spot on, and La Pierre Ronde is rapidly moving into the super-league of great white wines, only missing one or two top crus.
As said, La Pierre Ronde uses purchased fruit, and the acquisition of certified grapes – organic or biodynamic – is difficult, even in an abundant year like 2023.
The wines of La Pierre Ronde
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Aligoté Maceration 62 2023
The first of the Aligotés is the amphora-based young wine Aligoté from the Puligny vineyard called “Les Champs Pernots”. The Amphorae offset gives it a generous appeal … just like the 2023 vintage also pulls in this direction … perfect for sushi and other semi-rich dishes that don’t require a strong backbone.
(Drink from 2025) – Good – (87p) – 
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Aligoté Classic 2023
The second of the Aligotés is an oak-based young wine, Aligoté, also from the Puligny area. This is a bit more compact and not as vibrant as the amphorae version. I prefer the amphorae as this is slightly abrupt in the finish.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes 2023
The “old” Aligoté is from older vines (60 years) on the Ladoix side of the Corton hill. It was vinified in both amphorae (30%) and larger barrels, hence, the airy feel of large-format elevage. Has a perfect balance with a deeper and more complex structure. Somewhat reduced currently, but it is a delightful wine. This is one of my favourite Aligotés … with its effortless precision and length.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (89p) – 
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Côteaux Bourguignons Jeunes Vignes 2023
(Drink from 2025) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Côte-d’Or 2023
Fresh and vivid – frais et léger with a lovely tension. It is effortless and harmonious … really drinking well – will work for all from rich oysters to medium heavy fish dishes …
(Drink from 2025) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc 2023
This cuvée is from vines in Nantoux that grow at an altitude of 400+ meters. It has beautiful mineral tension and intense fruit. Adore the clear limestone note that is delicate and forward – such a lovely terroir.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (89p) –
La Pierre Ronde Rully 1er Cru 2023
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88p)
La Pierre Ronde Ladoix-Serrigny Les Gréchons 2023
Ladoix is in many ways an overlooked appellation, as the mighty Corton takes credit for the top terroirs in the village. This is a big mistake in my view, as there are many delicious terroirs in Ladoix. The Gréchons is a mineral and refined terroir – quite tight and intense. It is quite expressive and with a punch that can manage even a fish and chips – why not!
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good – (89p) –
La Pierre Ronde Meursault Les Malpoiriers 2023
This Meursault village comes from Les Malpoiriers, on the Volnay side of Meursault, next to En la Barre and below Perchots. Raised in 50% new oak. It’s intense and rather energetic with a nice phenolic balance. A rather classic Meursault – better than the 2022 due to the lower dose of new oak.
(Drink from 2031) – Very Good – (90p) –
La Pierre Ronde Meursault Les Perchots 2023
This neighbouring village, Meursault, comes from Les Perchots, also on the Volnay side of Meursault, next to En la Barre, but above Les Malpoiriers. Older wines. Fine mineral balance, well structured … has a lovely midpalate tension. Better definitely but not a different level altogether.
(Drink from 2033) – Very Good – (91p) –
You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.
- A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion
- A potential vin d´émotion - frais et léger
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.