I have known Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne for some years, as he was a leading figure at Domaine Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet.
In 2021 he launched his new negociant business La Pierre Ronde, and in November I went to sample its second vintage, 2022.
My expectations were high. I was not disappointed!
Background on Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne
Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne has a scientific education from French universities in general sciences, agronomy, and oenology. He graduated in 1999 from the elite Ecole Polytechnique in Paris. Antoine also holds a M.Sc. in Agronomy (AgroParisTech), a Master of Viticulture, as well as the French National Diploma of Oenology (Montpellier SupAgro).
Antoine is a specialist in biodynamic viticulture and has worked on several Burgundy estates as a consultant, helping each towards the holy grail of biodynamic viticulture.
He has been involved in producing high-quality wine for years, but now he has taken a big step with his own business, La Pierre Ronde.
The project is based on acquired grapes, and hence didn’t use biodynamic fruit in its inaugural vintage, 2021. But given Antoine’s knowledge, it certainly tastes like very good grapes indeed were found, even in the difficult ’21 vintage and further on in 2022.
La Pierre Ronde’s style
Last year I wrote the following: “The wines from this new estate are made with an easy, gentle hand, and this really shows in samples from both cask and amphora. These are airy, refined wines; effortless, and with beautiful brilliance. They are classy, and this estate already shows tremendous potential.”
I think this was spot on, and La Pierre Ronde is rapidly moving into the super-league of great white wines, only missing one or two top crus.
As said, La Pierre Ronde uses purchased fruit, and the acquisition of certified grapes – organic or biodynamic – is difficult, even in an abundant year like 2022.
The wines of La Pierre Ronde
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Coteaux de Bourguignons Jeunes Vignes 2022
Fresh and vivid, but also effortless and slightly laid back, as is the vintage. Harmonious, and with a light mineral impression, this is a vin de soif that makes a good impression. It is cool, with a light-footed character. (Bottled in August 2023.)
(Drink from 20249) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Aligote 2022
The aligoté is from fairly old vines near the Corton hill on the Ladoix-Serrigny side. This is quite a generous aligoté, and it doesn’t have the backbone of the 2021. Rather gentle and harmonious, it is definitely more generous than the ’21, but the two wines play on different strengths. The ’22 is more vinous, and will go better with more substantial cuisine. (Bottled in August 2023.)
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Aligote Vieilles Vignes 2022
The “old” aligoté is from older vines (60 years) on the Ladoix side of the Corton hill. It was vinified in both amphorae (30%) and larger barrels, hence the airy feel of large-format elevage. Deeper and more complex, it’s quite reduced currently, but is nonetheless a delightful wine.
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc 2022
This cuvee is from vines in Nantoux that grow at an altitude of 400+ meters. It has delightful mineral tension and intense fruit, but is still fleet-footed. There’s a clear limestone note that is delicate and forward. The 25% new oak used gives it a good backbone. (Bottled in August 2023.)
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Rully Fromange 2022
The Rully Fromange is an elegant beauty with a terrific saline note that will suit shellfish well. It reminded me a bit of Dureuil-Janthial (that’s a fine compliment), as it has the same energetic freshness. Yet another reason to take a closer look at Rully.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Ladoix-Serrigny Les Gréchons 2022
Ladoix is in many ways an overlooked appellation, as the mighty Corton takes credit for the top terroirs in the village. This is a big mistake in my view, as there are many delicious terroirs in Ladoix. The Gréchons is perfumed and full of finesse, although at 13.8% alcohol is slightly on the hot side. It is expressive and rich, but remains delicate and moreish.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Meursault Les Malpoiriers 2022
This Meursault village comes from Les Malpoiriers, on the Volnay side of Meursault next to En la Barre and below Perchots. Raised in 100% new oak, it is harmonious, delicate, rather classic Meursault – and extremely well made. The oak is in good balance despite its full use.
(Drink from 2031) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
La Pierre Ronde Meursault Les Perchots 2022
This neighbouring village comes from Les Perchots, also on the Volnay side of Meursault next to En la Barre, but above Les Malpoiriers. Because of the 60-year-old vines, only 30% new oak was used here. It is harmonious and delicate, with more minerality, but again a classic Meursault and beautifully made. The oak usage was well judged, and the minerality is a notch up from the Malpoiriers.
(Drink from 2033) – Very Good – (91p) – Tasted 10/11/2023 –
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