I have known Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne for quite some years; as he was a leading figure at Domaine Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet.
Antoine Lepetit de la Bigne has a scientific education from French universities in general sciences, agronomy, and oenology. He graduated in 1999 from the elite Ecole Polytechnique in Paris. Antoine also holds a M.Sc. in Agronomy (AgroParisTech), a Master of Viticulture, as well as the French National Diploma of Oenology (Montpellier SupAgro).
Antoine is a specialist in biodynamic viticulture, and has worked on several Burgundy estates as a consultant, helping each towards the holy grail of biodynamic viticulture.
He has been involved in the production of high-quality wine for years, but now he has taken a big step and created a new negociant business under the name La Pierre Ronde.
The project is based on acquired grapes, and hence doesn’t use biodynamic fruit in its inaugural vintage, 2021. But given Antoine’s knowledge, it certainly tastes like very good grapes indeed were found, even in the difficult ’21 vintage.
La Pierre Ronde’s style
The wines from this new estate are made with an easy, gentle hand, and this really shows in samples from both casks and amphorae. These are airy, refined wines; effortless, and with beautiful brilliance. They are classy, and this estate already shows tremendous potential.
La Pierre Ronde is designed to use bought-in grapes, and starting out as is did in 2021, the possibility of acquiring certified grapes – organic or biodynamic – was almost non-existent. To get any white grapes at all was a minor miracle, particularly with as high a standard as that set by Antoine de la Bigne.
It is, of course, early. But this is one of the more promising newcomers I have identified in recent years, so keep an eye out for this label.
(That said, please note that the labels and marketing strategy are not yet fixed. I will certainly try to follow this interesting estate and keep you informed.)
The wines of La Pierre Ronde
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021
Fresh and vivid, with quite a blend of used and new oak, including a beautiful new Stockinger barrel that graces the cellar. The grapes are from the Mâconnais (Viré area), and have a crisp, vivid freshness; 2021 has a nice, cool character in reds and whites. This shows lovely freshness and airiness.
(Drink from 2023) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 28/04/2022 –
La Pierre Ronde Bourgogne Aligote 2021
The aligote is from old vines in the vicinity of the Corton hill. This is a fresh, rather vivid aligote with a fine, vinous character reflecting the relatively old wines. The area around the Corton hill is a good match for the variety, and this shows lovely, hedonistic playfulness. Very good for the vintage.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 28/04/2022 –
La Pierre Ronde Rully Fromange 2021
The Rully Fromange is a beauty, with a lovely saline note. It reminded me a bit of Dureuil-Janthial, as it has the same lively, energetic freshness. This has vivid, transparent fruit, and is a lovely effort.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 28/04/2022 –
La Pierre Ronde Saint-Romain Les Jarrons 2021
Les Jarrons is the first vineyard you meet when driving up to Saint-Romain from Auxey-Duresses: it’s on the slope down towards Auxey. This wine is fresh, pure, and slightly reduced, yet deep and intense. A delight, with vivid energy.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 28/04/2022 –
La Pierre Ronde Meursault 2021
The Meursault village comes from Les Perchots and two other terroirs. The elevage is done in two separate containers, one oak, the other a Tava amphora. The oak version is slightly more reduced and compact, but still fresh and velvety, reflecting the location of the vineyards. The amphora version is more open, effortless, and expressive, with a lovely vin d’émotion sensation. It has not been decided if the two cuvees will be blended for bottling or if they will be bottled separately.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 28/04/2022 –
You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.