Léger … the key to vin d’émotion

Global warming is an increasing problem in Burgundy and recent vintages are considered to be warm or even hot seen from a historic perspective.

The increasing ripeness sets a stronger focus on energy: a sense of lightness and liveliness. The French expression a “vin léger” encompasses many of the keywords like the sense of lightness, effortlessness, and light-footedness.

A word like light or lightness is a much stronger, direct and physical than the term “feeling of lightness” which is a feeling induced by a combination of factors like acidity, energy and phenolic ripeness among others.

From concentration to the sense of lightness

For many years, concentration was the mantra for the vignerons, but mark my words … a “sense of lightness” is what you should be looking for. The wine can well be concentrated, but it should feel effortless with a sense of energy and vividness.

The French term “léger” is perhaps the best … often used by my dear friend when ordering from Champagne or red wine, “frais et léger.”

A sense of lightness, freshness, energy and effortlessness are the key parameters, meaning that the wine should have a feeling of effortlessness and vivacity carried by the freshness and energy.

Take a taste of the best 2023 red Burgundies, for example. They often have the vivid freshness and energy, whereas the 2022s are sweeter on the mid-palate– sometimes lacking the sense of lightness and drinkability due to the slightly sticky sweetness that some of the wines have on the mid-palate.

A vin d’émotion should not feel dense or sticky and it should always be carried by energy and freshness giving effortless drinking and great drinkability – the urge for another glass.

“Frais et Léger”

“Frais et léger” – “Frais” literally translates to fresh but refers to energy and vivacity, and “léger” translates to light but with reference to being effortless with a phenolic appeal – the latter meaning a phenolic ripeness that is lively and not even slightly over the top. This is very important as the phenolic appeal will decide the feeling of vivacity and liveliness. Complex … hell yes!

A even slightly phenolic overipe wine can easily get a darker tone of fruit, and also show a less vivid acidity. So phenolics are very important for the léger feel. More about the character of the phenolics in a later article.

Finally, one could adjust by saying “léger but not light” … if one is scared of getting a light Burgundy in the glass!! I am not!

Serve it cool … the “frais et léger” wine will often make your day regardless of the level.