The story of the 2022s from Anne Gros turned out to be more exciting than expected, as Anne’s son Paul Tollot-Gros has created his own estate, taking with him some vineyards.
In the short term, this hasn’t had important consequences for Domaine Anne Gros, but I expect that more vineyards could be transferred to Paul as time moves on.
Anne Gros and hedonistic pleasure
Hedonism and wines from this estate are interlinked. The fact is that Anne Gros’ wines provide great hedonistic pleasure, despite not being the most detailed and precise representatives of their terroirs. These wines, in theory at least, could be more detailed, but this could in the end have an adverse effect on their hedonistic qualities.
Balance vs detail?”
I don’t think that detail and precision are necessarily the path to hedonistic glory; balance, proportion, and the weight and feel of each element are equally important. Effortless hedonistic simplicity is sometimes joyful and gratifying.
The Anne Gros wines deliver this joyful balance, with pleasurable qualities, plain and simple. And they do so year after year. They have a hedonistic grace and a relaxed, holistic style that makes them delicious each and every time.
Make no mistake: The Anne Gros wines deliver the goods in abundance.
I tasted the 2022 wines on November 30 last year.
Domaine Anne Gros Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2022
The Hautes Cotes de Nuits, the first wine in the red line-up, is showing generous fruit on the nose – raspberries and hints of dark cherries. It’s quite cool for the vintage, with a good vibe and vivid acidity. On the palate, delicate fruit and quite some oomph for the level. A vin de soif!
(Drink from 2024) – Good –
Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Rouge 2022
The Bourgogne Rouge is a step up in complexity from the Hautes Cotes de Nuits. It comes from 40-year-old vines.
Our Red Burgundy is a blend of three parcels (0.87 ha total): Les Champs d’Argent, Les Glapigny and Les Pasquiers, with an average age of 40 years. These parcels are all situated on the flat, separated from the hillside by the RD 974 between Nuits-St.-Georges and Flagey-Echezeaux.”
Rich and quite delicate, this shows vivid fruit and good intensity. The 40-50% new oak gives it quite a bit of punch. Fine red pinot fruit, raspberries and cherries, mix with a slightly perfumed hint of peony. More lush and rewarding than the Hautes Cotes, but also a vin de soif.
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good+ (87p) –
Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle-Musigny 2022
The Chambolle-Musigny village comes from a plot in La Combe d’Orveau, the valley behind and above the Clos de Vougeot. The bouquet is expressive, with delightfully sweet fruit notes – redcurrant, pomegranate, strawberry. On the palate, elegant and delicate fruit; another vin de soif.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89-90p) –
Domaine Anne Gros Vosne-Romanee 2022
The Vosne-Romanee village originates from Les Barreaux, the climat above Cros Parantoux and Richebourg. This is a gorgeous village terroir on the cool side of Vosne. Anne Gros has some really old vines in this plot (90 years), and the result is a deep, velvety wine, one that is always a highlight of the portfolio. It has fine, quite sweet pinot aromas – strawberries and raspberries perfumed with violets and peonies. The expressive, perfumed nose really invites you to explore this delightful village. This one wants keeping, however; it should be given five to ten years in the cellar.
(Drink from 2032) – Very Good+ (90-91p) –
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