The Domaine Bertheau Bonnes Mares is somewhat overlooked and misunderstood.
Firstly the focus on Domaine Bertheau have always been somewhat limited, secondly the Les Amoureuses seem to take most of the fame and glory.
Although I do love the Les Amoureuses – the Bonnes Mares is however the bigger wine in the Bertheau portfolio, and is always served last at Domaine tastings – after Les Amoureuses. So lets give the Bertheau Bonnes Mares the focus it surely deserves.
The wines of Domaine Betheau
My first visit to Domaine Bertheau was in 2011 – tasting the 2010 vintage – but before this I had tasted quite many wines from this rather low key estate.
To be honest I find the wines of Francois Bertheau difficult to taste from cask – and while I normally really enjoy the wines from bottle – I’m often in doubt when tasting from cask.
In the end – I have had many fine moments with Bertheau wines – so I do have faith in these wines – although the quality perhaps show some variation. In the end I have had some very enjoyable pinot moments with especially the Les Amouereuses from Bertheau – and also the seemingly rare Bonnes Mares.
Bonnes Mares – the darker side of Chambolle Musigny
Bonnes Mares is sort of the “dark side” of Chambolle-Musigny, a vineyard that represents a hybrid between Chambolle and Morey – a vineyard that sometimes is somewhat overlooked when compared with the mighty Musigny.
Bonnes Mares is 15.05 ha – hence almost 40% larger than Musigny – and is located in both Chambolle Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. The main part is in Chambolle-Musigny – north of the village and Les Fuées – and only 1.52 ha is located in the Morey appellation – just south of Clos de Tart.
Bonnes Mares begins at the southern end of Clos de Tart – actually there is a part of Bonnes Mares located within the enclosed walls of Clos de Tart – and this part is now a part of Clos de Tart, although it’s named Bonnes Mares in the official cadastre maps.
Bonnes Mares continues from Clos des Tart to Chambolle Musigny Les Fuées and the village part of Chambolle Musigny Les Cras, with the top of the slope not being a part of Bonnes Mares, but either village or the 1er cru part of Chambolle-Musigny Les Véroilles (the 1er cru is a monopole owned by Domaine Ghislaine Barthod).
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Thomas Börner says
Hi Steen. Did you taste the 08 Bonnes-Mares from Bertheau? And what would for you be the optimal drinking window?
Best Thomas
Steen Öhman says
It will no doubt keep – but the 2008s are quite open and forward, and presumably moving rather rapidly. If it was my bottle. If your cellar is cool – I think I would keep it around 5 years more – if not you could taste it now. Not a wine for 20 years of cellairng in my view – as this producers in general matures rather rapidly.
Pierre Martin says
Hi steen,
Have tast the 2002 amoureuses from bertheau ?
And what did tiu think about it ?
thanks in advance
Steen Öhman says
yes but it`s some years back. Lovely wine – perhaps not great. Would expect it to show very well – a fine year for Amoureuses in my view.
Maxim Lesnichenko says
Hi Steen, I am offered to buy a 1995 Bonnes-Mares. With other 1995 Burgundies I was very much satisfied before. As long as I know Bertheau their wines are quite fragile and I’m a bit concerned about buying it. Have you ever tasted 1995 Bonnes-Mares from them recently?
Steen Öhman says
have not tasted the 1995 Bonnes Mares .. but stored properly it should still drink well