“I, Winehog, take thee, Riedel/Zalto/Grassl, to be my wedded stemware, to have and to hold, from this day forward, for better, for worse, for richer, for poorer, in sickness and in health … “
Be that as it may, we do tend to update our preferences, and Grassl is new in my line-up.
This is (for some) very serious business; certainly for the glass industry, and sometimes even for you personally, as changing a whole line-up of glasses is expensive.
I have just updated my stemware choices, covering my current and recent selection of glasses for work and pleasure.
This update is short and to the point.
The stems of choice
I have the following preferred stems in the house – ones that I have used for some years – and several of which date from the early 1990s:
Preferred Stems:
- Zalto Universal
- Riedel Sommelier Burgundy Grand Cru
- Grassl Cru
My standard glass is Zalto Universal, and this works very well for me for most wines – even red Burgundies. I use these stems all the time.
That said, it is somewhat on the analytical side, with a slight bias toward showing acidity and the mineral component in a wine.
The Riedel Sommelier Burgundy Grand Cru is my main red Burgundy glass, and it will serve (well) for all good pinot. It is flawless in my view, as it doesn’t have any strong tendencies, aside from a small issue with lesser wines, which can almost disappear in the cup. It is not overtly analytical, and has a sufficient focus on the hedonistic side of things.
The Grassl Cru is my preferred stem for young Burgundies, and is always a good go-to Burgundy glass, although somewhat fragile.
Secondary stems:
- Riedel Vinum Bourgogne
- Riedel Vinum Chardonnay
These are rarely used reserve stems I get out for purely hedonistic purposes (drinking) or larger tastings. Neither is ideal, but they are nice and forgiving!
Please note – I have stopped using my Zalto Burgundy stems.
That’s it (for now)!
Thomas Bentzen says
Dear Steen
Can you elaborate why you have stopped using the Zalto Burgundy?
Steen Öhman says
I have from time to time I used the Zalto Burgundy stem, but only for a specific purpose, as this is a very analytical stem which focuses too much on detail and too little on the hedonistic picture.
This is not a good stem for pure pleasure, and I sometimes wonder why they are popular – although it has some specific purposes as a tool for wine tasters.
To be honest I prefer more holistic pleasure – and think I get this from Riedel and Grassl – for most wine drinkers this is what it should be about.