Vin de soif?

Wine journalist the Winehog interviewed wine consumer Steen Öhman (aka the Winehog, below) about the concept of “vin de soif.”

Six pointed questions about “vins de soif”

A short note on the term vin de soif: It is an expression used about wines that are easy-drinking and or drinking well. Thirst quenchers is a nearly accurate translation.

As Eric Asimov of The New York Times put it – “The English have a word for them, too – quaffers – though I prefer vins de soif.”

I sometimes fear, however, that using this term is construed as not taking the wine seriously, and frequently nothing is further from the truth. Energy and hedonistic pleasure are two of the cornerstones of vins d’émotion – and of the best vins de soif.

During the last decade or two, we have seen a new style of wines coming from Burgundy – wines with an easy drinkability and more limited demand. They are wines to drink early, with perhaps a somewhat less ageing potential – but still adequate ageing potential.

Vin de soif – what do you think?

For me, a vin de soif is an enjoyable wine for immediate or near-term consumption – no self-questioning required, and no regrets.

As a wine collector, I am accustomed to cellaring wines and reflecting intently on storage and optimal drinking windows. Collecting wines from say, Roumier, is a 10- to 30-year project. My 1999 Roumiers have not yet reached full maturity.

This has its charm, yet so does drinking wine from Marc Soyard: an immediate, casual experience, joyful and expressive without having to think and/or wait for years or decades.

Vin de soif from great vineyards?

I have huge respect for Burgundy’s terroirs. A Pommard Rugiens is a rare and strongly mineral experience, and not something I take lightly. It is a wine that demands respect, and should not be glossed over.

Of course, one could say that a Pommard Rugiens from Armand Heitz offers a joyful experience even when young, and given the respect I have for Armand’s work and wines, I would feel unjustified in calling it a vin de soif. A Pommard Rugiens? Come on!

Vin joyeux (joyful wine) is perhaps a better term, although that loses in translation as well.

Vin de soif and vin d’emotion?

Vin d’emotion is a different animal from vin de soif. Quality- and expression-wise, a vin d’émotion is only occasionally a vin de soif.

In the end there is a link, however. Biodynamic wines are in my view more vivid and expressive fruit-wise than conventional wines, and the level of sulphur is also a factor, as higher levels prevent for me the easy accessibility required for a vin de soif. Too much sulphur will also, in the end, prevent the creation of true vin d’émotion?!

What creates a good vin de soif?

Limited sulphur – as mentioned above – is surely one element. The extraction level is equally important. Moderate extraction is clearly beneficial in helping create a vin de soif. The same is true regarding the use of new oak – or should I say the use of “strong” oak, as some coopers’ house style and toasting methods are incompatible with the concept.

Finally, it is important to acknowledge again that wines with shorter elevage can be easier-drinking wines, and on the way to being a vin de soif.

So is vin de soif your thing?

Yes; I adore forward, drinkable wines, and enjoy the opportunity to drink open, accessible wines earlier, and at often resonable prices.

Burgundy has, however, multiple layers, and I ultimately want a blend of classic, aged wines combined with lower-sulphur vins de soif. Burgundy has it all.

Could you recommend some good vins de soif?

In the end, this is down to individual taste. I enjoy the wines from Nicolas Faure, Marc Soyard, Freddy Cossard, Claire Naudin, Philippe Pacalet, and Chantereves without having to wait 20 years. You can age them, but cellaring these wines for 25 years will not necessarily be rewarding – just enjoy while you can – I`m 55 😉

Will you miss out on something by drinking vins de soif? Perhaps the perceived expression of detail and precision. But that’s just one man’s opinion!