The Winehog’s first decade began at this fine estate at a memorable tasting with some of the great wine personalities of the time: Roy Richards, wine merchant extraordinaire; and the great and sadly now late Clive Coates – at the time perhaps past his peak, but still an influential writer.
Hedonistic indulgence and joy have become my mantra after a long, philosophical discussion at a small house in Vosne-Romanée. This has caused some important, and in some cases quite dramatic, re-evaluations of many producers whose wines I have tasted over the years.
The question is really simple: Do the wine and the producer provide hedonistic joy and energy, or even create a true vin d’emotion?
It did not take long for me to determine that the wines of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair do bring me joy, hedonistic pleasure, and tremendous indulgence. They have a certain ability to thrill and seduce me – often followed by the urge to open another bottle to share with my friends.
The best wines from this estate are sinfully decadent, and in some cases, almost mythically delicate with a special tension and energy. These are the archetypal definition of vins d’emotion.
Yes, they have a distinctive style, like all good wines. And yes, they have a strong resemblance to the essence of the great Henri Jayer’s wines, although in my opinion, the Liger-Belair wines on average take the hedonistic thrill to even higher levels. Yet the gratification is in the same league.
I am normally very careful with comparisons to Henri Jayer. But only the Comte Liger-Belair wines show the hedonistic grace and liveliness that match the best from the great master. While the style is different, the wines are from my point of view even better in many cases, while the joy, exultation, and seductive flair sometimes show a surprising resemblance.
Times have changed over the past decade, and the Liger-Belair wines have changed from rather affortable to … well, pick your own word. These wines are now the treasures of the wealthy on the gray market and futhermore a rare, but welcome, treat for us mere mortals who can afford the occasional bottle.
In the end, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s wines have 100% their own character: joy and drinkability in a modern and biodynamic context. They are a “must have” in my cellar.
The 2021s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
The 2021 vintage was difficult due to the frost that set back Liger-Belair and other core Vosne producers. Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair lost around 70% of total production, and it had to make a blended cuvee from the small 1ers crus in Vosne. The Les Petits Monts, Aux Brulees, Les Chaumes, and Les Suchots were assembled into this Vosne 1er Cru; hopefully a one-off, but still a lively offer.
The wines developed quite slowly in barrel; malolactic fermentation wasn’t completed until in September/October this year, as opposed to early summer/ late spring under normal conditions.
After a difficult start, the wines are now falling into place, offering lively energy and hedonistic depth. They aim to please with their cool fruit.
So let’s taste!
Tasting notes for the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2021s
For the record, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair uses 100% new oak for all wines except the white, where the share is around 30%.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc 2021
The ’21 whites are interesting for both their energy and their dynamics. The Grandes Vignes white is crystal clear and vivid, with loads of energy. The 2020 was clearly bigger, but I adore the vivacity of the 2021. This will undoubtedly provide lovely drinking.
(Drink from 2030) – Fine (91-92p) – Tasted 17/11/2022 – CASK – 
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 2021
It’s not every year I taste the regular Vosne-Romanée village, which comes from numerous plots scattered around Vosne. It will not blow your skirts off or up, but it does have lovely tension in the fresh ’21 vintage. The fruit is lively and vivid, and the slight white-flower note and healthy dose of oak do give me a hedonistic thrill.
(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (89p) – Tasted 17/11/2022 – CASK –
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Colombiere 2021
The Vosne-Romanée Colombiere is really showing well, lively and vivid with some exciting white and pink floral notes. Good acidity and fine energy combine for an unusually fresh take on Colombiere; this is rocking the ‘Hog’s boat. Again, not the biggest Colombiere ever made, but joyful drinking it is
(Drink from 2031) – Fine+ (90-91p) – Tasted 17/11/2022 – CASK – 
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- A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion
- Vin de soif