The wines from Domaine Pierre Labet are often overlooked, overshadowed by the wines François Labet makes at Chateau de la Tour, the top brand of his group.
This is my usual introduction, and while it is true, a new, dynamic element has been added to the equation – Edouard Labet, François’ cheerful son. Edouard has taken charge of some of the vinification (now helping his father) and has presumably eased the approach to somewhat lighter extraction.
Domaine Pierre Labet – background
Chateau de la Tour is renowned for making some of the very best wines from the Clos de Vougeot. Yet François Labet, its owner and manager, also makes tremendous wines from his second family estate, Domaine Pierre Labet, which has large vineyard holdings scattered among Burgundy’s appellations.
The Labet portfolio includes some lesser-known terroirs located on the outskirts of certain appellations, hence often offering a different take on how terroirs express themselves.
Examples are Beaune Clos du Dessus de Marconnets, a village vineyard located at the northern end of the Beaune appellation at the very top of the slope. François produces both a lovely white and a charming red from this rather remote Beaune terroir.
In Meursault, Labet owns a large plot in the village terroir Les Tillets – located at the top of Meursault above Les Narvaux. A lieu-dit producing mineral-driven Meursaults that appeal to hard-core terroir aficionados (like me), when combined with Domaine Labet’s delicate, refined style, Tillets offers a lovely Meursault experience.
So what could appear to be a “middle-of-the-road” addendum to the Clos de Vougeot’s top wines is actually an exciting estate with lovely wines from interesting terroirs. They should therefore not be missed.
As a bonus, the estate works organically and, from 2015, biodynamically. This is a serious operation, and its work translates into lovely, superbly well-made wines.
Notes for the white Labet 2020s
It was an interesting vintage; and 2020 can be surprising in the sense that its best wines have fine acidity and good pH despite the year being quite hot and dry. When made well, it is a lovely vintage that permits fine expressions of terroir. It’s robust, with a strong character that, for better or worse, does not offer as much in the area of seductive, sensual, hedonistic treasures as 2019.
The ’19s can’t help it: they want to seduce you, while the 2020s show their goods more reluctantly. The 2020s are cool customers from a hot year.
Some feel there’s a risk the ’20s will shut down hard when bottled. One could anticipate this, but no one knows for sure (yet). That said, cautious extraction of the 2020s was a good move to avoid big, rough wines.
Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2020
The Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes is a quite intensely structured wine for its level. It is crystal clear, like many 2020s, and elegant, but somehow lacking a bit of the exotic charm of the 2019s. It is on the voluptuous side, and is not a discreet little ballet dancer. From vines in Beaune and Chorey-les-Beaune, with elevage done in 350- and 450-litre barrels and 30% new oak.
(Drink From 2022) – Good – tasted 15/12/2021
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Domaine Pierre Labet Beaune Clos du Dessus de Marconnets 2019
I adore a good white Beaune, and Labet in 2020 seems to have nailed the balance. Clos du Dessus de Marconnets is quite classic, with relatively robust acidity. The vintage seems to suit white Beaune well, but will require some cellaring.
(Drink From 2028) – Very Good (89-90p) – tasted 15/12/2021 –
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