Visit to Domaine du Puy de l’Ours -Tasting the 2023s

Domaine du Puy de l’Ours is a new estate with a very interesting profile and some lovely food-supporting and culinary-enhancing wines

These nice people make six wines each year, three reds and three whites, including a white made from Pinot Noir – a blanc de noir! This sort of sets the tone for the rest of the wines.

A bit about the young people

Domaine du Puy de L’Ours is the brainchild of a young couple who have inherited some fine and interesting vineyards, and a nice estate, in the very core of Savigny: Jean Orsoni and Juliette Puyperoux. In fact, the estate name comes from a combination of their two last names – quite inventive, as are the lovely labels designed by (guess who) Louise Lachaux. The couple decided in 2020 to go all in with the family vineyards and estate, and they took back five hectares of vines.

Domaine du Puy de l’Ours is a young estate; its first vintage released was in 2021, from which it produced elegant, fine, and charmingly extreme wines.

The 2022s showed great quality developing the style further … and now we are in 2023 …

The vines are organically farmed and the winemaking is low intervention and minimalistic. Sulphur levels are low, and so is the use of new oak.

The domaine produces six wines, including the afore-mentioned blanc de noir, a white Côte de Beaune, a white Savigny-lès-Beaune and several Savigny reds. They are remarkably interesting, with an airy touch. It was enough to send the Mini Cooper south to Savigny-lès-Beaune.

The wines

White

• L’Absurde – blanc de noirs (0.02 ha planted in 1968)
• Côte de Beaune Les Monsnières – (1.49 ha planted in 1992 and 2015/2016)
• Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Goudelettes (0.33 ha planted in the 1990s)

Red

• Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos Des Godeaux (1.61 ha planted in 1968)
• Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Follettes ( 0.78 ha planted in 1960 and 1979)
• Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières (0.78 ha planted in 1970)

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The wines

The wines are pure, transparent, and with personality – an edge one could call it. They each have their character and strong points and support different food and enjoyment

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Domaine du Puy de l’Ours l’Absurde Blanc de Noir 2023

L’Absurde is for me a very a exciting wine. Love the structure and backbone. It’s darker and more serious than the chardonnays, with a vivid intensity. This really has a kick, and a wine that will appeal to a lot of tasters. It’s a delightful wine that will lift almost all light lunch dishes, from fish to pasta. Spaghetti vongole would be a treat … Hedonistic … ohhh yes.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (89p) –  

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Domaine du Puy de l’Ours Côte de Beaune Les Monsnières 2023

The Côte de Beaune is a more traditional chardonnay: Its quite refined … with ripe and rich fruit. Has a lovely density and shows a beautiful saline note. Vin de soif, with a hedonistic scent. Around 6000 bottles were produced.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (87-88p) –  

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