Visit to Domaine Jacques Cacheux – tasting the 2018s

I have known the Cacheux wines for many years, and have tasted vintages back to the 1990s, including quite recently a surprisingly delightful Vosne-Romanée Croix Rameau 1999 that really intrigued me.

I also tasted the Cacheux wines at the Grand Jours de Bourgogne in 2018, and was hoping to return and taste at this year’s event – but that was not to be.

Luckily, we had the chance to make a last-minute visit to the estate in March, after Patrice returned from the Paulée de New York. As you can see, this was really last minute before the lockdown.

The complex Vosne family ties

To speak about families and relationships in Burgundy is complex, and fraught with the risk of making mistakes and misunderstanding things. In this case, things are indeed complicated, as the relationships within Vosne itself are Byzantine enough. When you expand into the neighboring villages it becomes even more … rich!

The origins of the Cacheux estate come from François Blée, who arrived on the scene in Vosne-Romanée in the early 1900s. François launched the domaine, but it was his son Charles who really established the family name in the village, being the régisseur at the Romanée Saint-Vivant estate in Vosne-Romanée, which was then owned by the Marey-Monge family.

In 1966 the estate was divided between the two daughters of Charles and Hélène Blée. The youngest, Jacqueline, married René Cacheux, creating Domaine René Cacheux-Blée.

To add a further twist, Jacqueline’s sister Lucette Blée married René’s brother Jacques Cacheux, and they created Domaine Jacques Cacheux – formerly Jacques Cacheux-Blée or Sirugue!

In 1958 Lucette and Jacques had a son, Patrice, who took over the estate from his father in 1994. Patrice is married to a Sirugue – Patricia – and they have two children: son Charles who is working at the estate with his father, and daughter Marianne, who is married to Pierre Duroché in Gevrey-Chambertin.

Via the Sirugue link, the Cacheux family is related to the Gerbet family and also a part of the Noëllat clan. As mentioned, Vosne-Romanée is very complex…

Confused? Not really!

The wines of Patrice Cacheux

I have followed the wines of Patrice Cacheux since the beginning as it turns out, tasting his wines from the mid-1990s.

The wines in recent years seem a bit more forward in their expression, and while I’m not certain, it seems likely to me that cold soaking could account for this forward, attractive note in the wines.

The second prominent element is the use of oak. While it is not excessive, the choice of cooper is marking the wines in a significant way when they are young,

The cooper is, of course, François Frères. Hence there is a well-known expression of its trademark special, slightly minty, note in the wines when they are young.

This is both a question of aging and taste. I think Francois Freres’ oak works best with bigger, richer wines – like the 2018 vintage – while lighter vintages will need some more time in bottle to mellow and integrate the wood.

That said, FF oak works especially well with Vosne terroirs. I do have some difficulties with, for instance, its impact on Chambolle minerality. But this is presumably just me…

To the notes!

Domaine Jacques Cacheux Hautes Côte de Nuits 2018

The Hautes Côte de Nuits is from Curtil-Vergy and offers both cool and intense fruit for this level. Not the most complex wine, but the combination of the hot vintage with the cooler climate high in the Côte produces fine drinkability. This is a true vin de soif – nothing more and nothing less.

(Drink from 2022) – Good (86p) – Tasted 13/03/2020

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Domaine Jacques Cacheux Nuits-Saint-Georges Au Bas de Combe 2018

While this is close to Vosne, I find an iron hint of Nuits-Saint-Georges in this wine. It’s quite forward and floral with fine freshness. It’s relatively cool for the vintage and offers good balance and energy.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 13/03/2020

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While one could almost call Au Bas de Combe a Vosne village, why would you if you have a large collection of Vosne villages ranging from the south to the north of the appellation?

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Domaine Jacques Cacheux Vosne-Romanée Aux Genaivrieres 2018

I entered Vosne via the Genaivrieres (a big part of this lieu-dit is owned by Domaine Leroy, whose estate is just above the vineyard). This is slightly reductive, yet contains sweet, ripe fruit that is pure and vivid with a slightly floral, airy note. A joyful Vosne village with a pleasing personality.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 13/03/2020

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Domaine Jacques Cacheux Vosne-Romanée Aux Raviolles 2018

Moving further south to Raviolles, on the border with Nuits, this is a bigger wine, with seemingly higher alcohol. Still, it is well balanced and rich, offering a tight, mineral expression of Vosne-Romanée. Personally, I prefer the Genaivrieres (in 2018 at least).

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 13/03/2020  

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Domaine Jacques Cacheux Vosne-Romanée Aux Ormes 2018

The Vosne-Romanée Aux Ormes is my favorite of the Cacheux villages, with its lively, generous mid-palate fruit that embraces the oak very well. Lovely airy and floral attitude makes this a vin d’èmotion if there is one here. Roses and curry are spicing my nose, and the combination works for me.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (89-90p) – Tasted 13/03/2020 –  

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