Visit to Domaine Vincent Dancer – Tasting the White 2022s by Théo Dancer

Théo Dancer is one of the new stars of Burgundy. His father Vincent enjoyed increasing popularity, but when Théo took over the estate in 2020 there was a change of gears in the implementation of new viticultural and vinification choices.

Théo is very young, 23; but he is a strong and confident guy who has a clear idea of what he wants and an aggressive plan to expand the domaine structure with negoce wines and sub-domaines. This could be a brilliant plan, letting the core brands drive the demand and prices for the sub-brands at different levels. And let me be clear: The sub-brands are also very good wines, just not from the sexier appellations.

The key will be producing enough wine to satisfy demand without compromising terroir, style, and quality. It will come down to the terroirs and drinkability of the cuvees. New brands must – in my view – be about drinkability and enjoyability.

From Vincent to Théo Dancer

Théo Dancer took over in 2020, and has already made some moves to improve the vineyards and the wines.

The first major effort was modifying the viticulture, changing normal pruning to gobelet and echalas. This is being done gradually, in 50% of the following vineyards:

• Chassagne-Montrachet Tete du Clos
• Meursault Perrieres
• Chevalier-Montrachet
• Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
• and the red Pommard and Chassagne Morgeot

Furthermore, the vinification has been adjusted to include a bit more sulphur, ending up with 20-25 parts per million at bottling, and showing that bucking the trend is not unknown to Théo Dancer.

The estate structure

Théo Dancer’s production can be split into the following categories:

• Domaine Vincent Dancer – white domaine wines (this article)
• Domaine Vincent Dancer – red domaine wines
• Théo Dancer Roc Breia – chardonnay and pinot noir made from vines owned partly by the Dancers, but with outside investors
• Théo Dancer negociant – wine from other, purchased grapes, including Savagnin and Grenache

This has given Théo a flexible and expandable presence, with the Roc Breia vineyards potentially producing wine to feeding the demand created by the popular domaine offerings, particularly the whites.

Speaking of which, let’s taste them.

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Vincent Dancer Bourgogne Blanc 2022

The Bourgogne comes from one parcel, and is well known by the Winehog as last year’s lunch wine (before the restaurant turned greedy). This is elegant and light-footed; for me, all I need. The reduction here is moderate, encouraging the ‘Hog to take another sip. The sulphur level is also moderate, although not low, at around 20 ppm.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (87-88p) –  

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Vincent Dancer Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2022

The Hautes Côtes de Beaune is deeper and slightly more reduced, with cool minerality. The 2022 vintage is generous as a rule, but the Hautes Côtes strikes a beautiful balance between coolness and energy. This is both intense and delicate, and I like it.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (88-89p) –  

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Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 2022

The Chassagne village comes from lower down on the slope, with one plot just below the Dancer estate where the new cellar will be build. This is the only wine in the line-up I don’t really fancy. It is quite dense and slightly flabby for a 2022, thus not showing the energy and vivacity I look for.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (88p)

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Vincent Dancer Meursault Les Corbins 2022

From the Volnay side of Meursault comes a (quite reduced) white with an intense, expressive mid-palate. This rather classic Meursault, enjoyable and vivid. What’s not to like?

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (90p) –  

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Vincent Dancer Meursault Grands Charrons 2022

Now we’re talking: Old vines planted in 1954 give deep, lively fruit in a rich wine, yet with the energy to corral the vintage’s generosity into a clear fruit core. The reduction is relatively moderate – or as Rolls Royce would say, adequate. What a gorgeous village!

(Drink From 2030) – Fine – (92p) –  

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Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2022

Dancer has also experimented with high-density planting, inspired by Lamy (like many others). This planting was done a decade ago in 2013, at a double density of 20,000 vines per hectare, which produces another type of taste profile. The rich acidity is deep and concentrated, although the minerality is not as powerful, as the vines are still young.

(Drink From 2029) – Fine – (92-93p) –  

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