The Pommard village is more expressive and charming than the quite serious Gevrey village. In the bouquet rather delicate red and dark fruit – quite floral – with lovely notes of red and dark cherries – spiced with hints of cinnamon and white peppar. On the palate quite expressive fruit, well structured with a fine depth for this level. Lovely Pommard village ….
The Nuits-Saint-Georges village is a step up in concentration from the Gevrey village. In the nose lovely ripe pinot fruit, with notes of red and dark cherries and raspberries – spiced up with cinnamon and a hint of white pepper. On the palate rich and sturdy, showing true Nuits-Saint-Georges character. Quite impressed by the layers of intense vibrant fruit – and the matching framework of tannins and minerality.
The Chambolle village is as always a step up in delicacy and refinement. The bouquet is slightly closed – but still showing fine notes of raspberries and cherries – spiced with hints of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate quite rubust fruit – intense with a playful Chambolle minerality. More tannins than usual – but still quite juicy with a good energy and nerve. A lovely expressive Chambolle village … cant rival the gorgeous 2010 and the 2012 though.
The Vosne-Romanee village is a notch up in quality. The bouquet is slightly reduced but crammed with layers of red and dark berry fruit – notes of raspberries and cassis – discretely spiced with violets, cinnamon and white peppar.The fruit is somewhat more compact than the ofther village wines, and show additional depth, focus and nuances – impressive for this level. A lovely intense village with a nice terroir expression.
The Saint-Aubin Les Combes 2012 from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is really showing well. The nose is crammed with rich orchard fruits spiced with a citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and weighty fruit … lovely nerve and energy. The finish is long with a delightful minieralic focus. A weigthy and powerful Saint-Aubin … lovely juice.
The Meursault Clos de la Barre 2007 from Lafon is showing well. Attractive fresh bouquet … white fruit, pear, apple … spiced with seashells and a citrus infused minerality. On the palate focused crisp with a lovely fresh acidity and a nice mineralic kick in the finish. Really like the defined focus and energy in this Meursault … a beautiful effort … lovely now – drink while it still have a vibrant freshness,
The Gevrey-Chambertin is showing beautifully and is even better than expected. The nose is bursting with layers of sweet airy red fruit – very charming with nice hints of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate very forward and delightful … quite openly knit with a lovely weightless feel. Not the most concentrated of the village wines in 2012 … but it’s simply gorgeous.
The Meursault Les Perrieres 2007 from Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet is quite forward and developed .. but showing well. The nose is crammed with yellow fruit – notes of apples and hazelnuts spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich, quite intense and weighty with a nice vibrant acidity … good energy and balance. A very good wine … but quite developed … and somehow a bit disappointing for the terroir and the vintage..
The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Masures (village) is a step up from Les Chaumes – although its slightly closed at the moment. The nose is showing signs of reduction – but one can still appreciate the lovely white orchard fruits and the quite delicate minerality. On the palate more refined and focused with a quite delicate fruit and structure for this level. Really loved this effort for its delicate display of Chassagne terroir – needs time to unfold though.
The 1995 edition of the Chambolle Musigny 1er cru has entered a quite lovely mature stage. The bouquet is expressive and forward offering fine red fruit, with notes of sous-bois, hints of truffle and a nice classic Chambolle minerality. On the palate mature red fruit – medium weight – with a nice mineralic backbone. Forward and quite lovely .. but somehow lacking a bit of focus and definition. Its however balanced and pure offering excellent drinkability now. Will most likely keep .. but why wait.
Note: This is the first vintage of the Chambolle 1er cru made from the younger vines on the grand cru Musigny vineyard.
The Vosne Romanee La Colombiere from Comte Liger-Belair is showing very well. The nose is displaying lovely red and dark berry fruit – spiced with cinnamon, allspice and a touch of well integrated oak. On the palate quite organic but focused fruit – lovely balance and weight for this level. Love the juicy expression of fruit and the discrete impression of oak.
The Chenevottes is quite a step up from the village level – very expressive and quite rich. In the nose rich and intense orchard fruits – with hints of some more tropical fruits – all brought forward by a citrusy and flinty minerality. On the palate rich, quite openly knit with a lovely fresh acidity and a playful minerality. Love the extrovert fruit and display of flinty minerality – always a treat to taste the Chenevottes from this house.
The Vosne Romanee 2011 from Bizot is showing well … driven by a tight but organic red fruit. The nose is quite floral with lovely notes of red and darker berries … spiced by a nice earthy minerality. One the palate fine weight and intensity … really like the organic fruit. Not the most focused village wines from Vosne … but a quite delightful glass of pinot. A quite lovely wine for medium term drinking.
The Vosne Romanee 2011 from Emmanuel Rouget is a lovely village effort – but needs time to resolve. In the nose crisp red and dark berry fruit with a quite strong impression of new oak. On the palate quite openly knit with a nice fresh fruit – nicely balanced and quite harmonious. The weight and intensity increases after some time in the glass – and the oak starts to integrate better with the fruit. Will no doubt be lovely when the oak integrates – and I’m not worried there are plenty of fruit here.
The Chambolle 1er cru 2003 from Vogue is quite open with some maturing notes. In the nose red fruit, prunes, liquorice with hints of oriental spices. The fruit notes are somewhat sweet and dense. On the palate somewhat dense and sweet – but quite fresh for a 2003 Burgundy. It’s lush and openly knit but also quite well structured with good grip from the ripe tannins – the very slight hint of sharp acidity in the finish is slightly disturbing. Nevertheless a very nice and enjoyable 2003.
The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet from Pacalet is a gorgeous effort. The bouquet is very expressive with white and yellow fruits – fresh but also some more exotic rich notes of acacia – all is infused with a gorgeous detailed minerality … crushed wet stones. On the palate quite intense fruit … aromatically rich for this level … balanced by a lovely freshness and minerality. Really like the purity and balance in this wine – one of the best white villages I have tasted from Pacalet.
The 2004 Chambolle 1er cru is showing very well for the vintage. In the nose relatively dark fruit with notes of sous-bois. On the palate quite weighty ripe fruit .. a bit sturdy and rustic .. still with some slightly edgy tannins. It’s a bit floral with a slight herbal note .. but not green like quite many 04s. A surprisingly lovely 04 … offer a lot of good drinking especially with food.
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Groffier is a disappointing effort in my view. The bouquet is currently dominated by some hints of reduction and a rather dense note of oak – underneath layers of dense rich and dark fruit. On the palate big and burly with a quite dense and meaty fruit – “spized” with a quite heavy expression of oak. Its somewhat openly knit and not very well focused. I’m sure the oak will integrate as time matures the wine … but this is nevertheless far from the style of Burgundy I prefer to enjoy. I think its hard to find a red thread in the wines from Groffier stylewise … the Amoureuses 2010 was just gorgeous, transparent and vibrant … and then this dense and meaty wine.
The “generic” Meursault 2012 from Roulot is showing all the qualities of the vintage. The bouquet is quite forward offering a quite intense aromatic profile of white and yellow fruits spiced with a quite intense citrus infused minerality. On the palate lovely fruit – intense and finely focused by the fine acidity … quite weighty but fresh and crisp. A quite powerful village in the making.
The Vosne-Romanee 2012 from Georges Noellat is a pretty little village wine. In the nose red and dark berry fruit – ripe and pure – spiced with elderberries, Vosne minerality and a healthy impression of oak. On the palate silky transparent fruit – quite light – with a lovely charming expression of fruit and terroir. Not a big village … but its delicate and quite refined. A bit more concentration would elevate the quality … but I would rather have this lightfooted style than weight gained via extraction.