The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Groffier is a disappointing effort in my view. The bouquet is currently dominated by some hints of reduction and a rather dense note of oak – underneath layers of dense rich and dark fruit. On the palate big and burly with a quite dense and meaty fruit – “spized” with a quite heavy expression of oak. Its somewhat openly knit and not very well focused. I’m sure the oak will integrate as time matures the wine … but this is nevertheless far from the style of Burgundy I prefer to enjoy. I think its hard to find a red thread in the wines from Groffier stylewise … the Amoureuses 2010 was just gorgeous, transparent and vibrant … and then this dense and meaty wine.
I have followed Burgundy wines quite closely the last 20 to 25 years – tasting a lot of lovely wines from many different domaines.
One domaine does however hold a special place in my passion for Burgundy wines – the name is Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé – a domaine with history, great vineyards, passion and first and foremost beautiful aristocratic wines.
The Bonnes Mares 2004 from Roumier is a somewhat mysterious wine. The last bottle I tasted earlier this year was austere and backward, this bottle more forward but sadly also with some slightly disturbing green notes. The bouquet is quite expressive with dark berry fruit – cassis, dark cherries – a earthy minerality and some less charming green notes. On the palate it’s powerful with fine midpalate fruit and a very fine weight for the vintage – slightly dusty and green in the finish. A big wine for the vintage – but the green notes are – although they fade after some time in the glass – somewhat problematic.
The Bonnes Mares is darker as usual – but with a surprisingly vibrant energy. In the bouquet layers of red and dark fruit – blackberries, pomegranate and red forest berries, spiced with a lovely earthy minerality. It’s intense, pure and transparent with a vibrant energy. The fruit is weighty but still expressive with a lovely tension between the red fruit and the quite firm tannins and the fine acidity. One of the best Bonnes Mares I have tasted from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé – a gorgeous wine.
The Bonnes Mares is quite a big step up in weight from the Amoureuses. In the nose layers of dark and red fruit with a deep partly earthy minerality – is a combination of terres blanc and terres rouges terroir. On the palate rich and quite weighty fruit – effortless power – with a magnificent balance and very fine length. A textbook Bonnes Mares … and then some!
The Bonnes Mares 1973 from Comte de Vogue is a great effort in this quite modest vintage. The bouquet is quite expressive with red fruit and sous-bois – spiced with orange zest and a hint of coffee. On the palate quite rich, sweet and round fruit with a nice earthy minerality. It’s quite delicious and fruity with a nice length and balance. The finish is slightly unfocused with some sweet notes of prune – but otherwise no indication of a lesser vintage. A truly impressive effort for the vintage …. and still a wine for pleasure – quite amazing.
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Vogue is a well balanced effort. In the bouquet fine fruit – notes of blueberries, pomegranate and raspberries – darker than the other Vogue wines – with a deep eathy minerality. On the palate layers of rich almost dense fruit … perfectly balanced with a fine focus and length. Slightly more backward than the other 2011s from Vogue – but nevertheless a very fine Bonnes Mares.
The 04 Bonnes Mares from Domaine Dujac is quite charming for the vintage. The nose offer a lovely range of berry aromas – raspberries, blue berries with notes of forest strawberries spiced with sous-bois – quite refined. On the palate quite rich with a dense midpalate fruit – powerful with fine length. A lovely 04 without the somewhat austere character found in some wines from this vintage. Need a few more years in the cellar to gain further complexity.
The Bonnes Mares 2004 from Bertheau is quite mature and almost ready to rock. The bouquet starts out with a hint of iodine – but after a few minutes the nose reveals openly knit red berry fruit, sous bois and a finely grained minerality. The palate show more expressive fruit – openly knit red fruit with a strong backbone of quite vibrant acidity and playful minerality. Compared to the 04 Bonnes Mares from Roumier this is slightly lighter, and it does not quite match the purity of the Roumier. This wine is however more forward and expressive and without the slight austerity found in the Roumiers 04 – two very different wines – but quite evenly matched. Bottom line – a lovely Bonnes Mares from Bertheau – and a very impressive effort for the vintage.
The 1990 Bonnes Mares from Vogue I finally coming around after more than a decade in deep sleep. The bouqet starts out with some slightly cheasy notes, but soon fall in to place with pure rather dark fruit – raspberries, sous bois, liquorice and tar – combined with the eathy minerality of the dark Bonnes Mares terroir. On the palate very pure red and dark berry fruit – it’s tight and linear, with a impressive intensity, length and focus. This is a serious quite old school Burgundy … with a somewhat austere expression currently. A very fine wine – but more impressive than seductive at the moment. It’s still quite fresh and vibrant – and it’s possible 5 years more in the cellar could bring out more charming red notes.
The Bonnes Mares 2004 from Roumier is quite impressive for the vintage .. but still need time to unfold fully. The bouquet offer crystal clear dark red and black fruits, it’s linear, very pure and only showing few mature red notes. On the palate it’s quite tight and focused with a very pure cool pinot fruit – no greenness here. It’s not a big and dense wine, but it offers purity and focus. Currently it’s a bit on the austere side – so I would give it 5 years more in the cellar to release some more expressive mature fruit. Impressive now – but will be lovely after 5 years of cellaring.
The Bonnes Mares 1998 from Domaine Dujac is a big but somewhat monolithic wine. In the bouquet tightly knit red fruit – with notes of red forrest berries, plum and vanilla. On the palate quite intense tight fruit with a big and muscular structure. It’s still seems unevolved and a bit one dimensional. Compared to the 1999 Clos de la Roche in the same set, it’s lacking true depth, transparancy and first and foremost delicacy and complexity. A very fine effort but – somehow lacking the X-factor!
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Vogue show a darker but quite juicy expression of pinot. In the bouquet loads of blueberries, black cherries and hints of peony rose, peppar and violets. On the palate darker and more dense jelied fruits, with a quite fine minerality – good lenght and balance.
The Bonnes Mares 1972 is a beautifully matured Bourgogne – fresh, vibrant and juicy but at the same time fully mature. In the bouquet delicate red fruit, sous-bois, orange peel with hints of leather and truffle. On the palate lovely juicy red fruit, a vibrant acidity – quite feminine and refined. Not a big and large scaled wine like the 1980 Musigny tasted two days before, but more pure and with a lovely transparancy and a vibrant acidity. A very beautiful and refined old Vogue wine.
One of the annual wine highlights is the October tasting of the new vintage from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogué. This year was no exception, and the expectations were very high, as the 2010 vintage is one of my favorite vintages in Burgundy – and I was not disappointed.
The 2010 Bonnes Mares from Vogue is a real beauty and one of Vogue’s very best efforts from this vineyard. In the bouquet a deeper, more complex and somewhat darker aromatic profile than the Chambolle 1er cru. Delicate red fruit and a very impressive minerality for this vineyard – notes of strawberries, blueberries and pomegranate with hints of gooseberries and redcurrant. On the palate refined juicy red fruit, very elegant and light-footed for a Bonnes Mares. The finish is long and lingering with a crisp minerality and acidity. A great Bonnes Mares – Chambolle style!
The 2009 Bonnes Mares from Vogue is a very very fine effort. In the nose fine red and dark fruit – kirch, red cherries, liquorice and raspberries. The bouquet is getting sweeter and darker as the wine develops in the glass – and a spicy herbal note is appearing in the nose. On the palate very good aciity and loads of fruit and extract. Hidden below layers of ripe fruit the tannins are quite powerful giving the wine a good balance and freshness. A BIG Bonnes Mares … will most likely need 20 to 30 years before it’s ready to show the full complexity.
The Bonnes Mares 2002 from Roumier is still very young and rather closed. In the bouquet a quite powerfull and meaty fruit, with spices and a fine minerality. After some time in the glass more refined with perfumed aromas of raspberries and a hint of cassis. On the palate very tightly knit, with a core of ripe fruit. After some time in the glass it starts to show a little more, but needs at least 10 years to loosen up. Has wonderful balance and refinement will without doubt be fantastic when it’s mature. Another great wine from Roumier.
(Drink from 2019) Outstanding – 95p
The Bonnes Mares is often the odd wine out in the Vogue lineup. Not this year however. Very focused bouquet with red and dark fruits – coulis and creme de fruit. On the palate same story, very pure, refined and focused. Good acidity, freshness, and a fine minerality for a Bonnes Mares in a hot year. This is a lovely wine – cheers.
(Drink from 2022) Very Fine – 94p
Tasted 08/10/2011 at Vinrosen with Jean-Luc Pepin
Bonnes Mares 2007 is a fine effort from Bertheau. Slightly closed in the Bouquet, but offers fine ripe and sweet pinot notes, both red fruits and some darker elements. Very fine concentration for a Bertheau wine, good length and minerality. Layers of ripe pinot flavors, but the fruit and acidity could be more vibrant – it’s just a little dense.
(from 2018) Very Fine – 93p