2022: Vintage Resemblance?

Visiting wine producers is always interesting. One of the more exciting moments is when the vigneron occasionally starts to explain which vintage he or she thinks the current offering most resembles.

This is not an easy sport, but it’s nevertheless one that is practised by tasters, vignerons – and journalists. Luckily, most guesses are forgotten, and only some of the journalists’ divinations are saved in articles and report

The hot, dry pre-season and the cooler, showery harvest period made the 2022 vintage difficult to categorise. No doubt it would have been another hot vintage (2018) if the rain in June and showers just before and during harvest didn’t rescue it from drought and phenolic blockage of the worst sort. What’s more, there is significant variability, as yields ended up ranging widely, with some managing them earlier and more carefully than others.

2017?

It’s pretty clear that there’s a resemblance to the 2017 vintage, as both have a generous, hedonistic style that is balanced and joyful. Both vintages were abundant, with an impressionistic feel that omits detail and instead focuses on joy and enjoyment. The 2017s are currently drinking well, and both the reds and whites are delicious, although for me, the whites have the edge.

Tasting the ’17 reds against the 2022s reveals that the latter is clearly a bigger vintage. The Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses 2022 is both deeper and more generous than the 2017, although both carry hedonistic joyfulness.

The 2022 Musigny from Mugnier clearly was a level or two above the ’17 version, tasted just after the ’22 in his cellar. Again: Both have joyfulness and hedonism, but clearly the 2022 shows more intensity.

2017 with some 2015?

The coolness of the ’22s is the key here: They do not have a global-warming character – over-concentration or sweet stickiness. They are fresh and lively, despite their lack of acidity; the miracle of the vintage.

In 2022, the reds are quality-wise level with the whites, although the low acidity shows the whites’ earlier ripening.

So: 2017, with a nice dose of 2015? Or 2017 with a dose of 2019 or even ’18? Time will be the ultimate judge, as ’22 does in some cases have “excitingly” high pH (low acidity) that could play an important role as the wines mature.

One vintage, please

So: What is the best suggestion for one vintage to encapsulate it all? Sometimes, 2002 is mentioned. It was also a charming, cool vintage that packed quite some punch, but without a real feeling of global warmth.

The ’02 whites were in the end on the richer side, perhaps ultimately lacking some acidity, but when they show well, they are beautiful. The reds can be brilliant, but ultimately lack the focused concentration of the greatest years.

The bottom line for 2022 is hedonism, enjoyability, and on occasion, truly great wines. This is not the vintage of the century, but it will do perfectly well for me.