Visit to Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand – Tasting the 2021s (and Some 2020s)

I first tasted Jérôme Galeyrand’s wines at Le Roi Chambertin, and they excited me immediately. Since then, I visited Jérôme once to taste his 2017s and 2018s, and I’ve also sought out his wines at restaurants. When I find them, I have been stunned each time by the quality they offer.

Jérôme Galeyrand is (in my view) one of the most talented vignerons in Burgundy.

I therefore felt compelled to visit the estate again, to get a deeper knowledge of these delicate beauties. So in early July, Vespa Lyn and I headed to Jérôme’s new estate, located in the old part of Gevrey-Chambertin.

Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand – history and background

Jérôme started the domaine in 2002, coming to Burgundy from the Loire valley. He began his wine education by helping Alain Burguet during harvests in the 1990s.

In 2002 he bought his first miniscule vineyard – 0.05 hectare of Les Retraits in Comblanchien – and did his first vinification. Since then, Jérôme has expanded the estate to its current 5.25 ha.

His viticulture is largely organic, and on its way to an AB certification; so, no pesticides here, and the vineyards are ploughed. Some wines include whole-clusters, and the vinification is delicate (limited use of SO2), contributing to the refined character of the wines. There is a cold soak for three to five days before the native-yeast fermentation begins.

The resulting wines are refined, elegant, and perfumed. They are wines that really make a positive statement, in a delicate and rather discreet way.

The vineyards holdings, bit by bit

Here is an incomplete overview of the vineyards currently under the Galeyrand label. These data are taken from the Becky Wasserman/Le Serbet website:

White:

• Bourgogne Chardonnay “Orane” – 0.42 ha in Brochon and Flagey-Echezeaux

Reds:

• Bourgogne Pinot Noir “Antonin” – 0.80 ha in Chambolle, Brochon and Gilly-le-Citeaux
• Côte de Nuits Villages “Vieilles Vignes” – 0.36 ha in Brochon
• Marsannay “Combe de Pré” – surface area unknown
• Fixin “Champs des Charmes” – 0.42 ha in Fixin
• Gevrey-Chambertin “La Justice” – surface area unknown; vines planted in 1950-60
• Gevrey-Chambertin “Billard” – 0.26 ha planted in 1987
• Les Retraits Côte de Nuits Villages – 0.68 ha in Comblanchien, planted in 1925 and 1932
• Gevrey-Chambertin “Croisette” Vieilles Vignes – 0.20 ha planted before 1935

The fabulous four

I like all of Jérôme Galeyrand’s wines, but the fabulous four – Justice, Billard, Croisette and Retraits – are in a class of their own. The 2021s are super ripe, with, for the vintage, a unique depth and harmonious display of pinot fruit. There’s not a hint of over-ripeness, yet the maturity of the grapes is stunning given the difficult conditions in 2021.

We also tasted a few whites that showed very well; however, it’s a bit early to taste the white ’21s. Luckily there were open samples of some of the white 2020s (see below).

Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand Cote de Nuits Village 2021

Slightly reduced, this has deep, ripe fruit with lovely energy and freshness. It’s like the bigger reds here: generous, with vividness and drinkability that are very good indeed. A vin de soif, so down the hatch without too much mind play.

(Drink From 2023) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 11/07/2022 –

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Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand Gevrey-Chambertin Justice 2021

Justice is the more robust and classic of the Galeyrand Gevreys. It showed somewhat reduced, and very much Gevrey. One feels the rich, generous fruit beneath the reductive notes.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 11/07/2022 –

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Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand Gevrey-Chambertin Billard 2021

My personal favourite among the Gevreys here, although not a monumental wine. It’s delicately perfumed, showing sweet, generous fruit. The term sexy does spring to mind, as this wine shows how enchanting a Gevrey village can be if the vines are singing their tune. The plot is in the Brochon part of Gevrey, just above the D974. The vines aren’t even that old, having been planted in 1987. But they produce a true vin d’emotion.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (91p) – Tasted 11/07/2022 –

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