Visit to Domaine Antoine Lienhardt – Tasting the 2023s

The siblings Héloïse and Antoine Lienhardt are the talented, enjoyable people behind Domaine Antoine Lienhardt in Comblanchien. This was my first visit to the estate -strangely – as I taste and drink many of its wines thanks to my local wine pusher.

So I should know the wines, but let’s go further, and learn more.

Vin natur (natural wine) as some would name it , I prefer to call it organic and biodynamic, as this sort of puts an understandable framework on describing the producer’s relationship with nature.

Domaine Antoine Lienhardt’s 2023s

The wines were tasted from cask on February 19 from both barrel and amphorae (concrete and clay). The proportions vary a bit from cuvee to cuvee, but Antoine would love to have one third matured in amphorae and the rest in different sizes and brands of barrels.

The preferred barrel here is now Stockinger, and the use of 400-litre containers seems like an excellent choice (more about the older barrels below).

In the end, it is the assembled wines that are bottled though. The disparate elements do demonstrate the expected variations: amphorae are more airy, free, and effortless; the barrels are slightly more compact and precise.

Knowing the differences is the name of the game here. Of course, one also wants to taste the assembled wines to get a more precise understanding. But things will change as bottling approaches.

I will return to Lienhardt later this spring to take a deeper dive into the amphorae and barrels.

Why I like Burgundy

Visiting Domaine Lienhardt reminded me of what I sort of miss in Burgundy today: a relaxed effortlessness and the willingness and urge to experiment and challenge conventions and methods.

Maybe it’s just me, but things can be too well organised and controlled for my taste. Still, as a journalist one needs to understand the rules and preferences at the place one is tasting.

All wine production is in the end commercial. But I prefer if this is kept at a reasonable level where not every tasting is to promote sales. So it is refreshing to taste with Antoine and Héloïse and feel the relatively relaxed and cheerful atmosphere in which they produce their wines.

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Domaine Antoine Lienhardt “Grand Crew” 2023

I tasted this cuvee for the first time in 2022, but this is made from bought grapes, so any year’s blend is decided through inspiration. In 2023, the blend is grenache and syrah! Readers will know I normally have problems with syrah, whereas grenache is quickly becoming a favourite. The Lienhardt style must accommodate the S-grape well, however, as I do like this wine. Vivid, and livelier than the 2022, this is a wild wine. And why not?

(Drink From 2024) – Good – (86-87p) –  

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Domaine Antoine Lienhardt “Gamayoptère” Gamay 2023

The gamay is right up my alley, although it will depend a bit on the final elevage. An old Francois Freres barrel (from 2017) was not a nice match for the wine. The other old barrel (Rousseau?) offered a delicate, fruity wine that was much more elegant and vivid. This will be on the ‘Hog’s table this summer, as it’s hard to compete with these wines price-wise.

(Drink From 2024) – Good – (87p) –  

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Domaine Antoine Lienhardt Bourgogne Rouge 2023

Pinot noir from Comblanchien, this is easier to contemplate. Vivid and open, with good acidity, it is lively. The key question is: Is it fresher than the 2022? Only the elevage will show, but at the moment my drinkability barometer is tipping towards 2023.

(Drink From 2024) – Good – (87p) –  

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Domaine Antoine Lienhardt Cote de Nuits Village Les Plantes Aux Bois 2023

One of my favourites here is Les Plantes Aux Bois. It’s deep and lively, delicate and elegant. I really like the balance between hedonism and detail here, and it exemplifies why I drink many Lienhardt wines in private: just for the pleasure of it.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (88p) –  

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Domaine Antoine Lienhardt Cote de Nuits Village Aux Vignottes 2023

In the end, Aux Vignottes is superior (but I do like Les Plantes Aux Bois). It took some time to understand and appreciate Vignottes, as it is slightly deeper and, given a bit of air, more finely detailed. Not to a degree where reckless abandonment becomes required, but one does get quite some hedonistic joy here.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good – (89p) –  

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Domaine Antoine Lienhardt “Emphase” 2023

This cuvee is an assembly of all of Lienhardt’s best Côte de Nuits village lieux-dits, and it is an expressive, expansive wine. I have loved it in vintages like 2021 (but not so much in 2018). I think I found a new friend in the 2023, as it has more structure and definition. I will drink this by the bucket, I think.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good – (89-90p) –  

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