Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair – First Taste of the 2023s

One of my most exciting tastings this month was the first sampling of the 2023s from Comte Liger-Belair, including a number of new wines from the estate’s 2022 expansion.

With the ’22 vintage, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair got new plots in Grands Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts, La Croix Rameau, and Aux Reas. He also added to his existing plots in Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots.

Now we have the 2023s in the glass, and an opportunity to taste at one of current Burgundy’s great estates. It was an early taste, so not all the wines were ready to be evaluated.

New plots from the expansion in 2022

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair took over the vineyards from the estate of Nathalie Pacareau (formerly a part of Lamarche), who decided to lease her vines to Louis-Michel.

The vineyards are prominent, even for Vosne. The Grands Echezeaux parcel is 0.30 hectare and is located in the middle of the appellation just above the Clos de Vougeot. The Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts consists of two plots in the southern end totalling just short of 0.50 ha. The Vosne La Croix Rameau is in the southern, upper part of the vineyard, encompassing 0.21 ha just below Romanée Saint-Vivant. Finally, the Aux Reas is in the southern part of the village.

As well, Liger-Belair got extra plots in Echezeaux, Clos Vougeot, and Vosne Suchots to complement his existing holdings in those vineyards.

Two of the vineyards produce wines that are new to the estate: Grands Echezeaux and La Croix Rameau. Malconsorts was part of the domaine’s patrimony before it was auctioned off in 1933 (not these parcels; others from this climat), so this is a welcome return of the wine to the Liger-Belair portfolio.

The biodynamic conversion of the vineyards has already begun.

A bit about hedonism and Liger-Belair

Hedonistic indulgence and joy have become my mantra after a long, philosophical discussion at a small house in Vosne-Romanée. This has caused some important, and in some cases quite dramatic, re-evaluations of many producers whose wines I have tasted over the years.

The question is really simple: Do the wine and the producer provide hedonistic joy and energy, or even create a true vin d’emotion? 

It did not take long for me to determine that Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair’s wines do bring me joy, hedonistic pleasure, and tremendous indulgence. They have a certain ability to thrill and seduce me – often followed by the urge to open another bottle to share with my friends. 

The best wines from this estate are sinfully decadent, and in some cases, almost mythically delicate, with special tension and energy. They are my archetypal vins d’emotion.

And judging from comments made by Liger-Belair’s fans, many consumers share my esteem for these wines, as they combine vinous joy with a clear expression of terroir.

Yes, they have a distinctive style, like all good wines. And yes, they also have a strong resemblance to the great Henri Jayer’s wines, although, in my opinion, while the gratification is in the same league, the Liger-Belair wines on average take the hedonistic thrill to even higher levels.

The key is biodynamics.

Biodynamics and the new wines

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is biodynamically farmed; the vineyards have been converted for years now. The process began in 2008 and was completed in 2012. Alongside the process, new vineyards have been added and gradually converted to biodynamics. The estate has been certified biodynamic by Ecocert since 2012 under the Biodyvin label.

The new vineyards are already in the conversion process, but it will take some years before the full benefits of biodynamic methods are realised. Previously, it would take seven to ten years before biodynamism’s full benefits were realised. But with the experience of the last decade, Louis-Michel expects to have the process well advanced in only five years in the new parcels.

This means that some wines – the new ones – will initially lack the traits of biodynamic viticulture. Especially at the beginning, they will lack the depth and energy found in a fully biodynamic Liger-Belair wine.

Judging from the 2023s, most of the new wines do lack a bit of the free biodynamic spirit, but they are already showing very well.

Read about “The effect of biodynamics” at Domaine du Comte Liger–Belair.

But let’s get to the 2023 results!

The 2023s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

For the record, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair uses 100% new oak for all wines except the whites, for which the share is around 30%. The grapes are usually destemmed, but whole clusters will sometimes be used in specific cuvees. All wines were tasted from barrel.

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere 2023

The Vosne Colombiere is really showing well; the vintage’s energy and vivacity suit the terroir’s clay soil. Slightly reduced at the moment, but showing good promise.

(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ (91p) –  

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas 2023

The Aux Reas comes from the Pacareau vines, and has gained some Liger-Belair characteristics since the 2022 vintage. It’s a big wine, elbowing its way into the line-up. Louis-Michel must be happy with the progress in this cuvée. That said, it needs some years of biodynamic viticulture before it pulls out all the stops.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (91p) – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Chateau 2023

The Clos du Chateau is not showing well at the moment. It is still early, and I will hopefully re-taste this later in 2024.

NR

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 2023

Chaumes is showing off again in 2023, with lively fruit and intensity. It seems to be getting better year by year as its energy builds momentum. The core of vivid fruit is elegantly light-footed, with the ’23 vividness showing its nice side. This really does show the hedonistic value of biodynamic viticulture.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (93-94p) – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes 2023

The Clos des Grandes Vignes is back to more normal yields in 2023. While quite spicy and intense, the higher yields lead to a more relaxed wine. It is debatable whether very low yields really express the terroir better; I for one am not so sure. This wine, however, shows one of the finer terroirs of Premeaux in all its beauty. It seems like this cuvee is now finding its place in the range by not trying to be a flagship display of style and power. This is an elegant vineyard; not really a powerhouse.

(Drink from 2034) – Very Fine (92-93p) – 

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