Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2023s

Comte Liger-Belair is sort of the origin of Winehog, as it was at this very Domaine where Winehog made its debut at a tasting with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, Clive Coates and Roy Richards the former agent of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair.

Some very competent Burgundy tasters … and this afternoon gave me the idea to start Winehog back in 2011.

Like today’s tastings, the Comte Liger-Belair wines are an event … a treat … wines with their own style. Some love them, others, perhaps not too much.

To think that one can please all is an illusion … and trying to do so is even worse … do your style and adjust it if you need to … but coming back year after year shows me the true value of a consistent and coherent style.

The new lineup

With the ’22 vintage, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair got new plots in Grands Échezeaux, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts, La Croix Rameau, and Aux Réas. He also added to his existing plots in Clos Vougeot, Échezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots.

But now we have the 2023s in the glass … exciting second tasting of most of these wines.

New plots from the expansion in 2022

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair took over the vineyards from the estate of Nathalie Pacareau (formerly a part of Lamarche), who decided to lease her vines to Louis-Michel.

The vineyards are prominent, even for Vosne. The Grands Échezeaux parcel is 0.30 hectare and is located in the middle of the appellation, just above the Clos de Vougeot. The Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts consists of two plots in the southern end totalling just short of 0.50 ha. The Vosne La Croix Rameau is in the southern, upper part of the vineyard, encompassing 0.21 ha just below Romanée Saint-Vivant. Finally, the Aux Réas is in the southern part of the village.

Additionally, Liger-Belair obtained extra plots in Échezeaux, Clos Vougeot, and Vosne Suchots to complement his existing holdings in those vineyards.

Two of the vineyards produce wines that are new to the estate: Grands Échezeaux and La Croix Rameau. Malconsorts was part of the domaine’s patrimony before it was auctioned off in 1933 (not these parcels; others from this climat), so this is a welcome return of the wine to the Liger-Belair portfolio.

The biodynamic conversion of the vineyards has already begun.

A bit about hedonism and Liger-Belair

Hedonistic indulgence and joy have become my mantra after a long, philosophical discussion at a small house in Vosne-Romanée. This has caused some important, and in some cases quite dramatic, re-evaluations of many producers whose wines I have tasted over the years.

The question is really simple: Do the wine and the producer provide hedonistic joy and energy, or even create a true vin d’émotion? 

It did not take long for me to determine that Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair’s wines do bring me joy, hedonistic pleasure, and tremendous indulgence. They have a certain ability to thrill and seduce me – often followed by the urge to open another bottle to share with my friends. 

The best wines from this estate are sinfully decadent, and in some cases, almost mythically delicate, with special tension and energy. They are my archetypal vins d’émotion.

Judging from comments made by Liger-Belair’s fans, many consumers share my esteem for these wines, as they combine vinous joy with a clear expression of terroir.

Yes, they have a distinctive style, like all good wines. And yes, they also have a strong resemblance to the great Henri Jayer’s wines, although, in my opinion, while the gratification is in the same league, the Liger-Belair wines on average take the hedonistic thrill to even higher levels.

The key is biodynamics.

Biodynamics and the New Wines

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is biodynamically farmed; the vineyards have been converted for years now. The process began in 2008 and was completed in 2012. Alongside the process, new vineyards have been added and gradually converted to biodynamics. The estate has been certified biodynamic by Ecocert since 2012 under the Biodyvin label.

The new vineyards are already in the conversion process, but it will take some years before the full benefits of biodynamic methods are realised. Previously, it would take seven to ten years before biodynamism’s full benefits were realised. But with the experience of the last decade, Louis-Michel expects to have the process well advanced in only five years in the new parcels.

This means that some wines – the new ones – will initially lack the traits of biodynamic viticulture. Especially at the beginning, they will lack the depth and energy found in a fully biodynamic Liger-Belair wine.

Judging from the 2023s, most of the new wines do lack a bit of the free biodynamic spirit, but they are already showing very well.

Read about “The effect of biodynamics” at Domaine du Comte Liger–Belair.

But let’s get to the 2023 results!

The 2023s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

For the record, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair uses 100% new oak for all wines except the whites, for which the share is around 30%. The grapes are usually de-stemmed, but whole clusters will sometimes be used in specific cuvées. All wines were tasted from barrel.

This means that the oak impression is quite intense. It’s the style, and even 5-year-old wines can have quite an oak note … so to speak. When they are older, oak tends to integrate fully. The oak is however setting the tone of the wine … some love it, some like it matured …

But serving an Échezeaux 2018 is not a good idea currently … even I have to admit.

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombière 2023

The Vosne Colombière is continuing to show well; the vintage’s energy and vivacity suit the terroir’s clay soil. Slightly reduced, but showing good promise. A lovely wine.

(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ (90p) –  

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Chateau 2023

The Clos du Château is airy and vivid … a beautiful wine on the lightfooted side. It has the same airy effortlessness as 2007, 2008 and 2013 … very transparent and delicate. It’s not a big Clos de Château – but I adore the delicacy of these vintages as this gives the full hedonistic magnitude of Clos du Château.

(Drink from 2033) – Fine (91p) – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 2023

Chaumes is showing off again in 2023, with lively fruit and intensity. It seems to be getting better year by year as its energy builds momentum. The core of vivid fruit is elegantly lightfooted, with the ’23 vividness showing its nice side. This really does show the hedonistic value of biodynamic viticulture.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (93-94p) –  – Tasted in May 2024

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes 2023

The Clos des Grandes Vignes is back to more normal yields in 2023. While quite spicy and intense, the higher yields lead to a more relaxed wine. This wine really shows one of the finer terroirs of Premeaux in all its beauty. It’s not trying so hard … the perfumed and delicate bouquet is a huge success. This is an elegant vineyard; not really a powerhouse.

(Drink from 2034) – Very Fine (93p) –

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