Domaine Dubuet-Boillot tasting 2023

Sometimes, I get stuck in my notes for no apparent reason, and while I try to perform my usual tricks to get the lyrics moving, I realize that I need to move on to the core of my doubts and questions.

So, here are the notes on Domaine Dubuet-Boillot … and make no mistake, I do like these wines … they are just complex to express it seems … and a lot of word joggling will perhaps not help … but I will give it a try …

Even in my first tastings of Maximes wines, I liked most wines … and loved a few … ie. a few are top-end vin d’émotion.

In reality, I think I am struggling to describe the delicate balance of phenolic ripeness in the 2023 vintage … a balance and freshness that Dubuet-Boillot need for his wines.

I think he has found it reasonable in most wines … but 2023 is difficult … very difficult. And if your style relies very much on energy from the phenolics, this is a dangerous vintage to dance with.

I think Maxime does an excellent job with his 2023s expressing the vintage, and he deserves a lot of applause for this … when he really strikes the balance, it sings. Burgundy is easy when the effortless energy of the wine is flowing.

The danger lies in going too far near the abyss of phenolic ripeness, as one risks losing first the nervousness, then, the tension … then, energy and freshness.

Please note … bigger terroirs often have another level of minerality and freshness and can overcome difficulties with the phenolics … and this is, to a certain extent, also the case with the lighter terroirs with a good minerality.

The 1er crus will be offered for tasting later …

… enough word joggling …

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Bourgogne Côte d’Or 2023 vintage is all about phenolic ripeness, and if it’s spot on, you have the most lovely energy and effortlessness. This is a modest terroir but nevertheless this has a fine aromatic … “bottom Volnay” is an awful expression … but it has a lovely fruit and energy in 2023.

(Drink from 2025 ) – Good (87p)

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Beaune 1er Cru Blanches Fleurs 2023 Darker … fruitier … riper phenolics … darker but with nice acidity, 20% whole cluster, nice fresh fruit. This is where it becomes difficult … to me – slightly too high phenolic ripeness … where the fruit darkens ever so slightly and the ultimate tension is missing. Still, a good wine … but too close and no cigar.

(Drink from 2025 ) – Good (87p)

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Bourgogne Carelle 2023 is a regional wine from below the Château de Pommard. Nice phenolic ripeness, slightly dark, however, and it does curb off the ultimate freshness. Still, a lovely wine with a good tension in the fruit.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (87p) –

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Next, is the Monthelie 2023 and a very nice phenolic ripeness … perhaps not spot on, but here we have the generous lady warming up her voice. Good energy … but on the rich side – quite velvety … but with a lovely freshness.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Dubuet-Boillot Volnay Sur Roche 2023

I have a soft spot for Volnay vineyards high on the slope, these often have something special. This is lively and sensual … deep with an intense hint of orange fruit, rich. Phenolics are much better with a lovely tension … whole cluster seems to widen the harvesting window. Perhaps not the most detailed or analytical wine, but its energy and vividness are truly delightful.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (90p) –

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