Cravings … In memory of Henri-Frederic Roch

Henri-Frederic Roch passed away in 2018. In more than one sense, his death marked the end of an era, one of extravagant indulgence where domaines and wines were to a higher degree was formed in respect for history and old traditions, rather than the latest fashion of the oenologues.

At Bist’Roch in Nuits-Saint-Georges, there was an atmosphere of hedonistic enjoyment and laissez faire. Wines, some that were not so perfect … were enjoyed with the wines from Prieuré Roch, often in abundant quantities, without inhibitions in a relaxed and atmosphere of enjoyment … like there was no tomorrow.

Sometimes, Henri Roch was there … tasting, drinking and enjoying his wines and his place. These were the times to satisfy your cravings … with several Roch wines available at reasonable amounts… to fulfil your craving for mature Roch like Clos de Corvées 2000, or other hedonistic treasures.

It was extravagant and great fun without costing a fortune. A diverse crowd of locals, journalists and foreigners were getting more or less hammered together in the small Roch café – Bist’Roch.

In many ways, Henri Roch was a symbol of cravings and letting pleasure and desire rule … I miss this … We are many who miss the spirit of Henri Roch and Bist’Roch.

Today, the ratings and prices are equally inflated … and what’s worse, the fun and partying have been replaced by label drinking … checking recent wine prices on the mobile phone while still at the table … time changes, I know!! But without pleasure and enjoyment, wine is not the same. We want the desire back on the wine scene. We want Roch back.

Cravings

Craving is essentially the ultimate expression of vin d’émotion … a craving for a wine is a strong feeling of wanting something intensively, or even a strong and uncontrollable desire for a wine … I want it … And I need it now!

We can research and talk about wines on an academic level … but desire cannot be ignored … it’s the intoxication of the senses, and even moderate levels of alcohol will change the mood and the situation.

Let’s face it, wine … real wine … includes alcohol, and enjoying it also includes a light intoxication. As always, drink in moderation, like me (sometimes at least) … It will allow you to enjoy your friends and your loved ones, and ensure that you actually can taste what you are drinking.

This is choosing a vin d’émotion that fulfils your desire … at any given time of the day, the week and the year.

In my view, wine drinking should be adapted to temperature and mood … and many people will adapt the wines consumed to fit the situation …

My personal summer cravings

The cravings combine your urge to enjoy a wine that fulfils the current and, sometimes, uncontrollable desire …

Currently, the temperature is 30 degrees celsius – hence, I enjoy VIF wines … i.e. wines that are fresh and energetic with a light appearance … frais et léger …

Good examples of this are Bérèche et Fils – Brut Réserve, Champagnes with a nice acidity that are not too vinous or rich.

Light and juicy Pét-Nats, like the one from Simon Bize, based on Chardonnay and Pinot Beurot.

Light red wine like the Baby Bandito “Chin up” from South Africa, made from Carignan …. this would be more fitting to the 2021 vintage and not the richer 2022 …

In Burgundy, you can go for some good acidity with Aligoté from Les Horées or Chanterêves … 2021 is beautiful now, in my view.

Serve it cold … very cold!

In general, light and low alcohol wines are preferable. Served cold … really cold, actually …

And if you feel the need, you can make a full-blown scandal and toss a few ice cubes in the glass for good measure … I would not mind your indiscretion – perhaps Mr. Henri-Frederic Roch would!

Crave … enjoy and enjoy with the ones you care for and love