Domaine Antoine Olivier – An Exciting Estate

White and red Santenays are speaking to me and my grumpy old palate more and more. The white Santenays have an outstanding saline minerality also found in white Savigny-les-Beaune and parts of Pernand-Vergelesses.

Add to this the fact that the red Santenays can be very interesting if the right vinification choices are made, often including a high percentage whole clusters.

This is quite apropos for the culinary world, where these saline notes work very well indeed with many cuisines.

Domaine Olivier is one of these overlooked domaines (by me at least), and it’s an estate that produces some delightful wines. These are not grands crus, but will enliven your palate more than you might expect.

I will introduce you to the Olivier wines that I feel stand out in both a vinous and a culinary sense to emphasize the true qualities of this lovely domaine – a new take on the regular visit format.

The whites

Both white and red Santenays are somewhat forgotten, but fine qualities can be found here, as both whites and reds can give you the needed mineral kick in the butt.

Let’s start with the whites; I picked three core wines plus two more for good measure.

Note that Antoine Olivier uses an unusual combination of Stockinger and Chassin barrels that give the wines a refined stance.

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Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay Clos Des Champs Carafe 2020

The vineyard is located at 450 metres of altitude, and produces mineral-driven wines that are somewhat on the slim side, although pure with a nice saline kick. This will work well with some dishes where the potent mineral note can cut through the food’s generosity.

(Drink from 2023) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 03/11/2022 –

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Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay Les Côteaux Sous la Roche 2020

This clearly my favourite, as it has a more generous stance. It’s stony and intense, with lovely balance. I adore the saline note, which helps make it a white for many dishes, though not for more complex recipes that require a suppler approach. I nevertheless enjoy this wine tremendously.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 05/11/2022 –

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Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay Le Bievaux 2020

The last of the three core wines is Le Bieveaux, a richer, more generous wine. Somewhat on the dense and slightly opulent side, it shows fine acidity and mid-palate weight. I prefer Les Côteaux Sous la Roche for its vivid energy.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 03/11/2022

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Domaine Antoine Olivier also produces a classic and well-known Santenay Clos des Graviere, and a Meursault village from Les Narvaux.

Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay Clos des Graviere 2020

Very mineral with a lovely saline punch, this classic Graviere is working well. Quite a potent white, the saline note is its greatest asset, but also a slight issue if the food does not match up to the wine.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 03/11/2022 –

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Domaine Antoine Olivier Meursault Les Narvaux 2020

As with the previous wines, this is classic and well made. The Stockinger and Chassin barrels work well indeed on this, as they do with the other wines. The Narvaux is silky but firm like most 2020s; quite a village.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (89-90p) – Tasted 03/11/2022 –

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The reds

I have also focused on the red Santenays as they are very interesting in this estate. They use 100% whole cluster in 2020 and this does transform the otherwise rather sturdy Santenays into something much more interesting.

Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay 2020

100% whole cluster –  25% new oak with Chassin and stockinger. Delicate yet slightly oaky in a good way working very well with the whole cluster fruit. It is vivid and with lovely energy … a charming wine.

(Drink from 2023) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 03/11/2022 –

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