Impressions of Domaine Boigey Freres in Vosne-Romanée

Domaine Boigey Freres is a new Vosne estate originating from one of the older families in the village. It was previously known as Domaine Albert Noirot.

Two Boigey brothers, Guillaume and Olivier, are running the estate, with vineyards that are gradually being taken back as share-cropping leases expire. The domaine started with a very nice portfolio of vineyards, and could eventually – if, or when, all parcels are recovered – have a beautiful selection of appellations.

In 2019 and 2020 the brothers produced three wines: Bourgogne rouge, Vosne-Romanée Les Jachees, and Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru. But a large plot of Les Suchots and a smaller one in Echezeaux are coming – exciting prospects!

The domaine is off to a good start. Its wines are sound and well made, with a nice expression of terroir, although they do not rock the very foundations of Vosne.

I was not impressed by the Bourgogne rouge from 2019. But with the 2020, there is progress. The brothers are still finding their feet style-wise, but at the moment the wines are fairly neutral in their style and vinification. I would characterize them as modern Burgundian.

This produces good value for the consumer, but personally, I hope for a bit more edge and personality in the vintages to come, as the foundation here is sound.

The Vosne-Romanée Les Jachees is discreet and well made (very good), but needs more mid-palate depth to approach the versions from mighty neighbours like Bizot and Comte Liger-Belair. The Boigey brothers have a benchmark in these top producers; initially, I believe they should strive for more definition from the Jachees terroir.

The wines here are much better than those from the low end of the production hierarchy in Vosne, where a good dose of oak seems to be the answer to all questions.

The Boigeys are introspective, and they’re starting with a fine base of healthy wines. The Nuits Damodes 1er cru comes with a pure and vivid NSG terroir reference, along with good depth and lively fruit. It’s a wine with a nice hedonistic impression, worthy of a Very Good rating.

The range is well made, and the wines leave a good impression. There is promise here that makes me want to come back, taste future bottles, and follow this estate as it finds its feet.