Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2024s from cask

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair … a new vintage … the 14th since I began visiting Louis-Michel and his fabulous estate in 2012.

The 2024 is the smallest vintage in Domaine history (corrected for expansions of the vineyard portfolio) – only 20% of the normal production – in a year with loads of mildew and other problems in the vineyards.

The good thing is, however, that the wines … well, sorted … are pure, lively and, judged at this time, seem to provide the joy and energy I seek in a Burgundy.

And no, this is not a big sunny vintage. The wines are elegant and harmonious with good concentration, but not “fruit bombs” like 2018, 2019, 2020 … 2022 and 2023

2024 are wines of the same scale as 2021 – but currently seem to have more “cheerful” energy, and with what appears to be a lovely short and medium-term drinkability. Not wines for 30 years in the cellar … but they will keep plenty for most collectors!

The Comte Liger-Belair wines are always an event … a treat … wines with their own style. Some of them are loves while others, perhaps, not so much. I have to admit that some of the wines in the Liger-Belair portfolio are among my favourite wines in Burgundy … and elsewhere, for that matter.

To think that one can please all is an illusion … and trying to do so is even worse … do your style and adjust it if you need to … but coming back year after year shows me the true value of a consistent and coherent style.

The lineup

With the ’22 vintage, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair got new plots in Grands Échezeaux, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts, La Croix Rameau, and Aux Réas. He also added to his existing plots in Clos Vougeot, Échezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots.

But now we have the 2024s in the glass …

Due to the low yields and the mildew, some of the cuvées were not made … Vosne-Romanée Colombier, Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas, Chaumes, La Croix Rameau and Aux Brûlées … these were blended into the generic Vosne village and the 1er Crus into a Vosne 1er Cru.

New plots from the expansion in 2022

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair took over the vineyards from the estate of Nathalie Pacareau (formerly a part of Lamarche), who decided to lease her vines to Louis-Michel.

The vineyards are prominent, even for Vosne. The Grands Échezeaux parcel is 0.30 hectare and is located in the middle of the appellation, just above the Clos de Vougeot. The Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts consists of two plots in the southern end, totalling just short of 0.50 ha. The Vosne La Croix Rameau is in the southern, upper part of the vineyard, encompassing 0.21 ha just below Romanée Saint-Vivant. Finally, the Aux Réas is in the southern part of the village.

Additionally, Liger-Belair obtained extra plots in Échezeaux, Clos Vougeot, and Vosne -Romanée Les Suchots to complement his existing holdings in those vineyards.

Two of the vineyards produce wines that are new to the estate: Grands Échezeaux and La Croix Rameau. Malconsorts was part of the domaine’s patrimony before it was auctioned off in 1933 (not these parcels; others from this climat), so this is a welcome return of the wine to the Liger-Belair portfolio.

The biodynamic conversion of the vineyards has already begun.

A bit about hedonism and Liger-Belair

Hedonistic indulgence and joy have become my mantra after a long, philosophical discussion at a small house in Vosne-Romanée. This has caused some important, and in some cases quite dramatic, re-evaluations of many producers whose wines I have tasted over the years.

The question is really simple: Do the wine and the producer provide hedonistic joy and energy, or even create a true vin d’émotion? 

It did not take long for me to determine that Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair’s wines do bring me joy, hedonistic pleasure, and tremendous indulgence. They have a certain ability to thrill and seduce me – often followed by the urge to open another bottle to share with my friends. 

The best wines from this estate are sinfully decadent, and in some cases, almost mythically delicate, with special tension and energy. They are my archetypal vins d’émotion.

Judging from comments made by Liger-Belair’s fans, many consumers share my esteem for these wines, as they combine vinous joy with a clear expression of terroir.

Yes, they have a distinctive style, like all good wines. And yes, they also have a strong resemblance to the great Henri Jayer’s wines, although, in my opinion, while the gratification is in the same league, the Liger-Belair wines, on average, take the hedonistic thrill to even higher levels.

The key is biodynamics.

Biodynamics and the New Wines

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is biodynamically farmed; the vineyards have been converted for years now. The process began in 2008 and was completed in 2012/2013. Alongside this process, new vineyards have been added and gradually converted to biodynamics. The estate has been certified biodynamic by Ecocert since 2012 under the Biodyvin label.

The new vineyards are already in the conversion process, but it will take several years before the full benefits of biodynamic methods are realised. Previously, it would take seven to ten years before biodynamism’s full benefits were realised, but with the experience of the last decade, Louis-Michel expects to have the process well advanced in only five years in the new parcels.

This means that some wines – the new ones – will initially lack the traits of biodynamic viticulture. Especially at the beginning, they will lack the depth and energy found in a fully biodynamic Liger-Belair wine.

Judging from the 2024s, most of the new wines still lack a bit of the free biodynamic spirit, but they are already showing very well.

Read about “The effect of biodynamics” at Domaine du Comte Liger–Belair.

But let’s get to the 2024 tasting!

The 2024s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

For the record, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair uses 100% new oak for all wines except the whites, for which the share is around 30%. The grapes are usually de-stemmed, but whole clusters will sometimes be used in specific cuvées. All wines were tasted from the barrel.

This means that the oak impression is quite intense. It’s the style, and even 5-year-old wines can have quite an oak note … so to speak. When they are older, oak tends to integrate fully. The oak is, however, setting the tone of the wine … some love it, some like it matured …

But serving an Échezeaux 2018 is not a good idea currently … even I have to admit.

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 2024

The Vosne-Romanée village is a blend of vineyards, as the very limited yield prevents in making many wines. In the Vosne village, we have all the regular Vosne village plots, Colombier and Aux Réas. It isn’t unfolding yet and lacks the oomph we usually experience. The 2024 vintage is not a powerhouse. The wine is made with care … no over extraction … very important for 2024. Has a lovely characteristic, the Liger-Belair notes… a nice intro to the lineup.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Good (88p) –  

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château 2024

The Clos du Château 2024 is already showing … and will presumably be in tank soon. A beautiful wine on the lightfooted side. It has the same airy effortlessness as 2007, 2008 and 2013 … very transparent and delicate. It’s not a big and concentrated Clos de Château – but quite refined and charming – I adore this wine even in the lesser years – Pinot Droit delivers the goods.

(Drink from 2031) – Very Good (90p) – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 2024

The 1er Cru is a blend of La Croix Rameau, Chaumes and Aux Brûlées. It is a charming beauty with a very fine acidity and pure and vivid fruit. It is a blend … so, not a precise unfolding of a Vosne terroir … but in reality, it is very elegant and quite lightfooted … I like the expression in this rare bird.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (93p) –  – Tasted in May 2024

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes 2024

The Clos des Grandes Vignes has the style of some of the older vintages of this wine. Quite concentrated and intense … the yields were very low has given a darkish and concentrated wine. Let’s see how it develops … but currently, it is big and burly for a 2024!

(Drink from 2035) – Fine (92p) –

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