Domaine Moron-Garcia – one of the most exciting new estates – has a very special and exotic vinification technique that uses a combination of whole cluster, baie-par-baie berries, and machine-destemmed grapes in their top cuvees.
Pierre-Olivier Garcia sent me the photo below from the weekends harvest of the domaine’s top cuvée – its Corton.
A closer look on the top layer …
Three barrels of Corton will be made this year, vinified as follows: 1/3 is whole cluster, 1/3 is baie-par-baie, and 1/3 is traditionally destemmed grapes.
Whole-cluster and traditionally destemmed grapes are well known to you readers, but the baie-par-baie technique is relatively unknown,
Moron and Garcia – Pierre-Olivier Garcia and Mathieu Moron – employ a special technique where approx 1/3 of the berries in the top-end wines are removed from the stems by hand, grape-by-grape, with a pair of scissors to ensure whole and undamaged berries for vinification.
This is extremely time-consuming. They must have a lot of good friends, not to mention special geeky dedication.
The baie-par-baie grapes are then vinified with whole-cluster bunches and machine-destemmed berries. They are arranged in layers in the tank: whole cluster on the bottom, then baie-par-baie, and on top machine-destemmed berries.
The baie-par-baie method is unusual and very time-consuming. However, the resulting wines are of both high and exciting quality.
In my opinion, this technique encourages exciting perfumed aromas (see Corton note below) and ensures the vivid freshness and balance not found in most wines.
The baie-par-baie Corton 2019
Corton is the domaine’s top cuvée, and it also uses the baie-par-baie technique. Domaine Moron-Garcia Corton “Cuvée Baie-par-Baie” 2019 contains the same fruit proportions as the Charmois and Herbues. It’s intense, lively and very energetic, although youthful; it will need time to unfold. I adore the energetic, silky fruit and the mid-palate delicacy and energy. The finely detailed bouquet is unusual for Corton and proves that, with the right ideas and people to implement them, Corton can produce very sensual, perfumed and emotional wines.
(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine+ (94-95p) – Tasted 11/03/2020 –
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