Gros Frère et Soeur – A Quick View of the 2020s

Gros Frère et Soeur does not require any introduction; it’s one of the best-known estates in Vosne-Romanée. Yet somehow the domaine has lost some ground over the last 30 years. It is still prominent, yes; but it’s no longer amongst the very top picks in the village.

This is how it goes: Changes in style, changes in customer palates and preferences can be unpredictable. Personally, I always found Gros Frère et Soeur a reasonable guarantor of good wines from the 1970s. Vintages like 1974, 1976, and 1978 did very well back in the day, and I have many fond memories of well-aged Richebourg and Clos Vougeot Musini.

Things got a bit quiet in the 1990s and 2000s – for me at least. But now a new generation is making its mark at Gros Frère in the shape of Vincent Gros, Bernard Gros’ son.

I did not have the chance to meet Vincent, so this is a quick view of the 2020s; a more detailed write-up about the estate will have to wait.

The style seems to have changed around 2018, with much less new oak. There was none in 2020, and Vincent used instead one-wine-old Cavins. This is a big change. As well, extraction seems lighter and so does the use of sulphur. The bottom line is: These are potentially truly exciting wines.

What do you think?

This quick view is a new format that I’m testing to try to improve coverage and readability. It includes a bare minimum of text; I only write what I feel is needed, without trying to fill in text and unrelated context.

Check it out!

Gros Frère in short

Domaine Gros Frère & Sœur Pinot Noir 2020

Pinot Noir from the Coteaux Bourguignons, this is entry-level. Quite intense, with the typical 2020 backbone, and a bit rough around the edges.

(Drink From 2022) – Average – Tasted On 02/11/2021

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Domaine Gros Frère & Sœur Bourgogne 2020

From below Morey-Saint-Denis, this is pure, better balanced and with a more refined – and suitable – extraction. Quite enjoyable, very nice.

(Drink From 2022) – Good – Tasted On 02/11/2021

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Domaine Gros Frère & Sœur Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge 2020

More vinous, airy, quite cool and light-footed, this is elegant and intense, and has good freshness.

(Drink From 2022) – Good – Tasted On 02/11/2021

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Domaine Gros Frère & Sœur Vosne-Romanée 2020

In a pure, ripe, and rather generous Vosne style, this is almost hedonistic – but not quite. Nice freshness – the one-year-old Cavins helped. Nice.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted On 02/11/2021

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