Les Horées – A German Blessing

Les Horées is the brainchild of Catharina Sadde, German in origin, and her French husband Guilhem, and I see a certain strong German perfectionism and precision shining through.

Just one look at the estate’s promotional material shows that every leaf on the vines has been turned in the name of perfection. I love this German influence, as it has an intellectual streak and a clear influence on the wines produced by Catharina Sadde.

The promotional material is for publication, so I am going to use it. And lazy journalist that I am, I also enjoy the way Catharina Sadde – who seems to be a truly remarkable vigneronne – expresses herself. Below are some quotes:

Les Horées

“The origin of the term Les Horées lies in Greek mythology. There are plenty of different explanations, and I am still looking for a good book to better understand its history and evolution. I describe Les Horées as the feast to celebrate the changing of the seasons. The goddesses of the seasons are called Horae (hours), and one can find the etymology of the word Horées there.”

I rarely see the word “etymology” used in the world of Burgundy wine.

The creation of the estate

The official, uninterrupted story by Guilhem and Catharina continues:

“We, Guilhem and Catharina Sadde, founded Les Horées in 2019. Guilhem is an auctioneer in Dijon working in the family business. I am German and a trained chef who changed my career when I got completely caught by wine and vineyards after a first harvest in the Nahe region in Germany. After that, I studied oenology and viticulture in Montpellier and at the University of Geisenheim. We met in 2010 when I came for my first internship at Domaine Chevrot in Cheilly-les-Maranges. From 2010-18 I did several internships (Domaine des Epeneaux/Comte Armand, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti), seasonal jobs (Maison Drouhin, Domaine Comte de Vogüe), vineyard and cellar-hand work at Domaine Cècile Tremblay, and viticulture management at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. After this broad and complete “apprenticeship,” I wanted to work independently, and it was the time, when someone offered us our first tiny plot of Beaune Prèvolles in 2018. The following winter we purchased another hectare, including plots in Pommard and Volnay. The newest addition in 2021 is a plot in Puligny which will be planted as Bourgogne Blanc. Officially we are negociants, but we now own 1.56 ha. We are very grateful to have established close relationships with our growers; all plots (our own and the ones where we purchase grapes) are harvested by hand by our own team. Moreover, we are allowed to intervene several times during the year on all the plots to apply biodynamic treatments.”

And then we go to biodynamics

Biodynamics is complex, and to have a rather detailed view of the methods and choices is unusual:

“Biodynamics is not just a farming practice; it is above all a source of inspiration and intellectual nourishment in every aspect of our life and work.  Dynamization is done only by hand in a wooden 90-litre dynamizer. Besides horn manure and horn silicate preparations, we apply several times during the season dynamized teas and plant concoctions. Due to our young history and tiny surface, we depend on a contractor for spraying, which is done by tractor and caterpillar. Ploughing is done by caterpillar or quite simply by hoe, and our vines in Pommard are ploughed by horse. We try to minimize ploughing. After the 2021 harvest, we did our first trials with sowing green covers (to fertilize and decompact the soil, and to manage water competition in our plots and limit the spontaneous weeds in the vineyards). Our vineyards are pruned in respect to the sap flow, as we apply the Guyot-Poussard pruning method. To increase biodiversity and create a living vineyard, we planted over the last three years aromatics, roses, different bushes, hedges, and trees on the edges of our plots, and even among the vines.”

The estate

“The first two vintages, 2019 and 2020, were vinified in Pommard, where we rented a small, charming cellar. In 2021, we purchased a bigger cellar in Beaune, right across from the train station. A new chapter for Les Horées opened up with this incredible working place. After getting to know the building during the 2021 harvest and vinification, we started renovations in February 2022.”

The cuvees, the vineyards

After this tour de force of German efficiency, we need to return to the more laid-back French attitude – or at least that of the Dane in Nuits-Saint-Georges.

And in candlelight we will now proceed.

---

Domaine Les Horées Bourgogne Aligoté En Coulezain 2021

From 0.37ha in Volnay, vine age around 30 years, on deep, grey marl soil with rows facing south-east, the vinification consists of 1/3 skin contact for five days in stainless-steel tank, with the other 2/3 destemmed and pressed immediately in a basket press after foulage (crushing) by foot. Indigenous yeasts are used , and no sulphur added until end of malolactic fermentation. The elevage is six months in used oak barrels, followed by five months in tank once the wines are blended (skin contact and direct press).

The Winehog note:

While Catharina Sadde likes to serve the two parts separately, I prefer to have the final blend, to judge the balance. The skin-contact portion of the cuvee is balancing element where one should be careful, and with the 2021, Catharina has hit the delicate balance spot on. The slightly edgy notes from the skin-contact portion, and the light fennel/anise tone, work very well. The fruit is pure and intense; a delightful wine.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –

---

Domaine Le Horées Bourgogne Blanc Aganippe 2021

Made with purchased grapes from 45-year-old vines in Meursault farmed biodynamically, this is direct-pressed in a basket press, whole bunches, after foulage by foot. Using indigenous yeast, there is no sulphur added until the end of malo. Elevage is six months in used oak barrels, then five more in stainless steel tank.

The Winehog note:

This is a very attractive 2021, rich and delicate, with a clear Meursault note. Slightly reduced, it’s still elegant, with the cool note of the vintage. I adore the style here, and while 2021 is perhaps not the greatest vintage, it does do the job well. A hedonistic treat.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –

---

Domaine Le Horées Bourgogne Rouge Le Vieux Sage 2021

From a 0.31-ha parcel in Pommard, this comes from old vines (around 60 years) on deep, brown, well-draining soil, a mix of clay and limestone. As the rows face east, this is an early-ripening plot. Vinified with 80% whole bunches; no sulphur addition until the end of malo; elevage 12 months in used oak barrels.

The Winehog note:

The Bourgogne Rouge uses 80% whole clusters, and this is part of the party trick here at Horées. Made in Pommard, this shows intense, delicate, silky fruit with perfect balance. Ohhh, I adore this wine!

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –

---

Domaine Le Horées Monpoulain Coteaux Bourguignon 2021 

Made from 50/50 gamay and pinot noir, this uses 80% whole bunches, with the two varieties vinified separately, and with no sulphur addition until malo is done. The elevage is 11 months in used oak barrels, and the wine is blended in tank a month before bottling.

The Winehog note:

Another gamay-heavy Coteaux Bourguignon, but still a lively, vivid wine showing deep, intense fruit with plenty of oompf. I love this wine’s character, and its expression of the gamay grape. Catharina does seem to get the very best from the grapes used, and this is a treat.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –

---

Domaine Le Horées Savigny-les-Beaune 2021

From 50-year-old vines on red, heavy soil (a mix of clay and limestone with some iron) with a south-east exposition, this also uses 80% whole bunches, with no sulphur until malo is done. The elevage is 12 months in used oak barrels.

The Winehog note:

The Savigny-les-Beaune is showing very well, with effortless, airy fruit that flows over the palate. It’s fresh and light-footed, giving untroubled fruit and a lovely floral nose – delicate pink roses. This is elegant and delightful.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –

---

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.