Les Horées – back with a desire

Les Horées is the brainchild of Catharina Sadde, German in origin, and her French husband Guilhem Sadde … an unusual combination of talents and skills.

It is in some ways the traditional estate startup … but tasting the wines I do find some unpolished talent that makes me want to taste more – a strange curiosity has set root in the Finn.

Les Horées … the name

“The origin of the term Les Horées lies in Greek mythology. There are plenty of different explanations, and I am still looking for a good book to better understand its history and evolution. I describe Les Horées as the feast to celebrate the changing of the seasons. The goddesses of the seasons are called Horae (hours), and one can find the etymology of the word Horées there.”

The creation of Le Horées

The official, uninterrupted story by Guilhem and Catharina continues:

“We, Guilhem and Catharina Sadde, founded Les Horées in 2019. Guilhem is an auctioneer in Dijon working in the family business. I am German and a trained chef who changed my career when I got completely caught by wine and vineyards after a first harvest in the Nahe region in Germany. After that, I studied oenology and viticulture in Montpellier and at the University of Geisenheim. We met in 2010 when I came for my first internship at Domaine Chevrot in Cheilly-les-Maranges. From 2010-18, I did several internships (Domaine des Epeneaux/Comte Armand, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti), seasonal jobs (Maison Drouhin, Domaine Comte de Vogüe), vineyard and cellar-hand work at Domaine Cécile Tremblay, and viticulture management at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. After this broad and complete “apprenticeship,” I wanted to work independently, and it was the time, when someone offered us our first tiny plot of Beaune Prévolles in 2018. The following winter, we purchased another hectare, including plots in Pommard and Volnay. The newest addition in 2021 is a plot in Puligny which will be planted as Bourgogne Blanc. Officially, we are négociants, but we now own 1.56 ha”.

“The first two vintages, 2019 and 2020, were vinified in Pommard, where we rented a small, charming cellar. In 2021, we purchased a bigger cellar in Beaune, right across from the train station. A new chapter for Les Horées opened up with this incredible working place. After getting to know the building during the 2021 harvest and vinification, we started renovations in February 2022.”

The 2022s … lets rock

So, back in the the lovely warehouse building in Beaune … I love these old and slightly rough buildings …. It could well be an art gallery or a combined wine and art place … the building is oozing with atmosphere.

For details about the cuvees see my review of the 2021 Le Horées cuvées.

In general, for the reds, 40- 80% whole bunches are used, with no sulphur added until the malo is done. The élévage is 12 months in used oak barrels.

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Domaine Les Horées Bourgogne Aligoté “En Coulezain” 2022

I have really enjoyed the Aligoté 2021 from Catharina Sadde. In my view, one of the very best in Burgundy in this difficult year. It’s from 0.37 ha in Volnay, vine age around 30 years, on deep, grey marl soil with rows facing south-east. This Aligoté is made partly skin-contact and this does give it an edge so to speak. Especially in a hot year like 2022, this is crucial for balance. The 2022 is perhaps not quite matching the magic 2021 … but this is also a real treat … I really like this style.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (89p) –

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Domaine Le Horées Bourgogne Blanc “Aganippe” NV

This is a special wine as it is a non-vintage cuvee – a 50/50 blend of 2022 and 2023. Catharina Sadde made this blend to get a better balance … and while this is somewhat unconventional … it works brilliantly. Nice and crispy with a fresh and vivid palate… lovely lively emotional side. A really lovely wine.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Le Horées Bourgogne Rosé 2023

I rarely taste rosé in the cellars of Burgundy … and this is really sad, as I love to grace my summer with a glass of light rosé. It’s sourced from Gevrey and Beaune … it has lovely light fruit and lovely acidity. It has a delicate nose – very light-footed – with a lovely freshness.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –

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Domaine Le Horées “Mon Poulain” Coteaux Bourguignon 2022

Made from 50/50 gamay and pinot noir, this uses 80% whole bunches. Another gamay-influenced Coteaux Bourguignon. Lovely rich fruit .. very good freshness. A quite delicate Passsetoutgrain from the upside of the Pommard appellation. Nice vividness … lovely fruit … lovely vin de soif.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Le Horées Bourgogne Rouge “Le Vieux Sage” 2022

Le Vieux Sage is from a 0.31 ha parcel in Pommard, with old vines (around 60 years) on deep, brown, well-draining soil, a mix of clay and limestone. The Bourgogne Rouge uses 45% whole clusters, and this is the party hat trick at Les Horées. Lively and fresh fruit … very nice balance with a lovely almost silky mid-palate fruit. Lovely juice.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (89p) –

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Domaine Le Horées Bourgogne Rouge “Les Six Ifs” 2022

Les Six Ifs is a denser and richer Bourgogne Rouge. It comes from Macon and Savigny. It is, in my opinion, not matching the le Vieux Sage as it lacks a bit of vividness compared to the Pommard cuvée. Let’s see when it settles in the bottle.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Le Horées Savigny-lès-Beaune “Les Plaisirs et Les Jours” 2022

From 50-year-old vines on red, heavy soil (a mix of clay and limestone with some iron) with a south-east exposition. It has delicate fruit and a lovely scent of raspberries … no new oak just a lovely, fresh and very elegant wine. 25-30% whole cluster … Lovely earthiness … a lovely wine … a hedonistic treat.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (90p) –

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Domaine Le Horées Beaune “Les Prévolles” 2022

The Beaune “Les Prévolles” is a delicate wine. Perfumed with 80% whole clusters. Lovely delicacy … with the mid-palate having very good energy. A quite sensual wine … love it ..

(Drink From 2029) – Very Good (90p) –

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