Visit to Mark Haisma – Tasting the 2022 Reds

Mark Haisma’s winery is in a new business park in Gilly-les-Citeaux, the same one that houses the prominent Domaine Laurent Ponsot. Not the most charming place in Burgundy, but the new buildings are certainly efficient.

I meet all kinds of winegrowers, and I appreciate them all if the wines are good. And the Haisma line-up impresses me, simple as that. These wines have more Burgundian character than a lot of other, older, native estates. Just sayin’.

I like the basics of Mark’s wines. Not all of them are my favourites, but the best offer quite a lot more of genuine “Burgundy” than many of the wines produced in nearby villages.

So let’s go to Gilly! The wines were tasted on November 21.

The 2022 reds from Mark Haisma

The quality of Haisma’s red 2022s really impressed me. They were (as in previous years) made with a gentle hand, leaving ample room to express both fruit and terroir. They are on occasion vins d’émotion, easy-going and effortless.

Mark Haisma “A Bogan in Bogandy” 2022

The 2022 Coteaux Bourguignon (30% gamay and 70% pinot noir) has the usual Haisma touch: It is informal and jumps from the glass like a feisty vineyard worker. It expresses its pleasure of being made from both pinot and gamay. Not complex, not deep, but it is honest, forward, and juicy. This kind of freshness is one of the joys of 2022. “A Bogan In Bogandy”?

(Drink from 2024) – Good – (87p) –

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Mark Haisma Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022

The Bourgogne rouge is also a delight; delicate, vivid, and with good intensity for this level. It has 2017’s drinkability, but is more intensely pinot. It’s not heavily extracted or dense, just delicious.

(Drink from 2024) – Good+ – (87-88p) –

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Mark Haisma Volnay La Cave 2022

The Volnay La Cave is one of my favourite wines chez Haisma. It has juicy raspberries and wild strawberries on the nose, along with great tension in its intensely vivid, juicy fruit. This is such a hedonistic treat, I adore it: simple as that. So delicate and effortless.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good+ (90-91p) –

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Mark Haisma Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins 2022

I have a soft spot for wines from Pernand, and so also in 2022. This is elegant and delicate, a cool pinot with sour cherries on the nose and underlying saline notes that make it savoury and gourmand. I’d love to have this with a cep or truffle risotto.

(Drink from 2028) – Very Good+ (89-90p) –

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Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin 2022

From a mixed bag of village vineyards in Gevrey (La Justice and Billard), this has a generous, rich touch – the essence of what 2022 does so well. As always, it’s intense but not dense, with genuine Gevrey character. A vin de soif.

(Drink from 2028) – Very Good (90p) –

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