To love and adore – or to admire and behold

During my latest visit in Burgundy in mid November 2018 I encountered the apparently already legendary 2018 Burgundy vintage.

Actually the talk and tales about this mighty vintage had already preceded the vintage – and expressions like “A vintage to rival the mythical 1947” – other say “I think the vintage (2018) is getting closer to 2015 and 2003, even if we don’t have the ripe side of 2003”.

I even tasted a few wines from the growers I visited, and while it’s very early I would say that in most cases these are wines on the ripe and generous side.

I do however feel it’s way too early to judge the vintage and or the performance of each grower … way to early, although it seems like the buyers already have changed focus to the 2018 from 2017 – to a certain degree.

But where is all this going ….??

2015 are very ripe … 2018 more so?

The 2015s are rich and generous, and will take plenty of time to integrate the sweetness and generosity in the wine, and to produce what I would call proper complexity and maturity – plenty of time that only the rare bottle will have.

Some even think the 2015s are too much of a good thing, and prefer vintages like 2014 og 2017 – where lightness and refinement are defining the wines .. rather than power and very generous fruit.

Now people are talking about the 2018, as more powerful and ripe than the 2015 – a combination of 2003 and 2015 … the notorious 1947 vintage …

This could well be good, but in reality these vintages – and many of the vintages produced now are moving Burgundy away from what some people love – the refinement, the delicacy … towards power, intensity and sweeter fruit.

The scores, points and their meaning

I do find myself in uncomfortable ground saying this, but the ratings and points loose the meaning, if we in the end are comparing apples and bananas.

The very ripe and generous vintages are for some, while the more classical vintages (they are still there once in a while) are for other collectors – who love those wines.

However to score the rich and 1947 like wines from the 2018 on the same scale as the more classical framed 2017s would in fact pose a problem – as 2015 in a sense also was!

I have struggled with the points and ratings for the last vintages, as they don’t quite add up, and the logic and consistency is breaking down (or up).

Breaking down logic

I think the start of problem began way back with global warming, but it became very apparent when the 2015 came to the market.

These were wines of a “new build”, generous with a opulence and power, that set them in another class – and while they are lovely wines – they do leave the mark on the palate, and most of these wines will regardless, be tasted young or relatively young – with the weight and generosity fully intact.

Add another gear … 2018? … and the logic is breaking further in some cases in my view.

I can’t rate a 2017 on the same scale as 2018 … either I will have to “add points” for the elegance of the 2017 or “deduct points” for the sweet ripeness of the 2018. Other writers will feel differently .. and do vice versa – but the point is – it’s in reality apples and bananas!

In reality these are not wines that are comparable ….

Wine Writer Wines

There is a term called “Wine Writer Wines … a term used for wines that typically get high ratings, often in years with a very good status .. take 2015, and 2016 … wines that impress the writers and journalists and even the buyers it appears (you know usually dorks like me).

The question is however – do I wan’t to feel impressed?

Or do I want to enjoy a hedonistic experience … no regrets and the full beauty of what Burgundy can give when it’s elegant, light footed and effortless!