Vincent Ledy has evolved quite a bit since my first visit. He is, nonetheless, still the slightly frisky vigneron who will try anything/everything to make better wines.
And his is a world of contrasts (see wines below).
I love it when adventurous, innovative people attack their work with talent and good ideas; some fantastic wines can be created.
The wines below were tasted on September 28; reds first.
Vincent Ledy – a unique talent
Vincent Ledy is not your average vigneron. He is in his own special way both talented and a bit edgy and tense, in the sense that not all his wines are easy-drinking, middle-of-the-road Burgundies. They are special, vivid wines with a unique freshness and glow that is somewhat difficult to comprehend.
I’m not sure I fully understand what makes his wines special, but old vines do help. Ledy’s experiments with zero-sulphur vinification are another potential explanation. The vinification is in some cases a bit on the radical side, with quite a hint of volatile acidity – although clearly not problematically high. But it does create a certain notable tension in the wines, adding a slightly nervous edge. The wines are charming and tense, with delightful liveliness.
And with these words of encouragement, I declare: Ledy’s is a special world, but several of the wines are unique and truly great, and I gladly cheer his efforts!
Tasting notes for the Ledy 2021s
First up is Bourgogne Les Combes 2021, from vines in Flagey-Echezeaux just opposite the Clos de Vougeot below the D974. The vines here are 50-60 years old, and this gives remarkable intensity to the wine. Ledy’s ’21 Bourgogne rouge is 100% whole cluster, and on the wilder side expression-wise. There’s tremendous energy for this level, with delightful tension and a hedonistic lift. When to drink it? In its youth!
(Drink From 2023) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 28/09/2022 –
The second red is from Chaux – the area on the Côte above the main part of Nuits-Saint-Georges. The vineyard has a southeasterly exposure, and quite limestony soil. The Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2021 comes from plots planted between 1994 and 2002, and it’s vinified with destemmed grapes. It is fresh and vivid, with lovely balance and fruit, and would be great but for one thing: the expansive style of the whole-cluster version below for comparison. If you go Ledy, you might as well go all the way.
(Drink From 2023) – Good (86p) – Tasted 28/09/2022 –
The Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2021 Vieilles Vignes is also from the Chaux vineyard. One part was planted in 1954, and produces this beautiful “entry-level” wine. The ’21 is (so far) made without sulphur, and with 100% whole-cluster grapes. I see in my notes “pinot porn,” and I’m not sure how to translate that into proper English. Let’s just call it highly expressive, and showing it all: vivid and silky, with a core of cloudberries, raspberries and hints of strawberries. This has gorgeous tension and liveliness and is clearly a vin d’emotion. Again, I will probably keep it for a while, but may also prefer it young, with its full tension and energy.
(Drink From 2023) – Very Good+ (87-88p) – Tasted 28/09/2022 –
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