A new era has begun at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, with Bertrand de Villaine taking over from his uncle Aubert, and Perrine Fenal moving into the place of the late Henry-Frédéric Roch.

Substantial changes are happening at an estate that is based on tradition and continuity. Add to this that Alexandre Bernier has taken over from Bernard Noblet, and fresh new winds are indeed sweeping gently through Vosne-Romanée.

Traditions certainly will be upheld, but changes will nonetheless happen, now as before. No one makes great wines year after year without adapting their viticulture and vinification to climate change and other substantial challenges.

Respect for the collectors

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is a unique estate, the apotheosis of Vosne-Romanée and top-end Burgundy. As with all great estates, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti takes the preferences of its clients very seriously, and stylistic changes are thought through carefully. This is a complex process at an estate with as long a history as DRC.

The style of DRC’s wines has been in the hands of the Noblet family for decades, first under Andre Noblet from 1946-1985, and then with Bernard Noblet from 1986 until he retired in 2018. The style – and the conditions in which the wines are produced – no doubt evolved under the very long Noblet reign. While some parameters have been stable, important, but subtle, changes have appeared over time. And great wines have been made continually over the years and decades.

Now there’s a new winemaker at the wheel, although saying that, he’s been at DRC for many years. I tasted the 2011 vintage with Alexandre Bernier back in 2012, on my very first visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Bernier has built up a plethora of knowledge, experience, and ideas over his years under Bernard Noblet. His plans for improvements and changes will take the DRC wines forward to the future.

The 2021 vinification

The 2021s are made with a mix of barrels (mainly new), and there is still quite an impact from François Frères, although in a different, slightly more discreet, style. Bernier is finding a new balance of wood for the reds, maintaining some well-known elements and some of the good qualities that François Frères brings.

As well, the use of sulphur in the vinification process has been eliminated. It is only being added – with great moderation – at bottling or elsewhere late in the process.

For the reds, Bernier targets 15 mg/litre of free sulphur at bottling, and only 30 mg/l total. The reduced sulphur use adds definition to the wines’ details and to the sense of effortlessness, notably in the reds. The compactness of the mid-palate due to sulphur has been eased, especially when the wines are young.

I am sure that Alexandre Bernier has made other adjustments and will continue to do so. He certainly has ideas and knows how to implement them.

Now, however, DRC is showing its full portfolio, including Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er Cru as well as the Vosne-Romanée Duvault-Blochet 1er Cru.

Included in the Duvault-Blochet are both young grand-cru vines and vines from Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots and Au Dessus de Malconsorts, both small parcels of 1er cru owned by the domaine.

Tasting the 2021 vintage

The 2021 vintage was hard, and the whites particularly were hit by the frost: 90% of the harvest was lost in Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. For the red Cortons, 80% was lost, while 50% was lost in Vosne-Romanée.

Big losses, and we therefore did not taste the white ’21s.

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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton 2021

The Corton 2021 is a very rare bird, with 80% lost to the frost. This wine showed very well indeed, as the temptation to make a big, masculine Corton was resisted; instead, a concentrated but also light-footed Corton emerged. Rich, this is not over-extracted, with the oak perfectly judged and no dominant signs of the Francois brothers. Elegant is the descriptor that springs to mind, with the character of the 2021 vintage shining through.

(Drink From 2035) – Outstanding (94p) – tasted on 15/11/2022 –

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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 2021

The Echezeaux 2021 is again elegant and light-footed, following the style of the vintage. Vinification seems slightly lighter for this, although the oak is a bit more forward at the moment. This has a nice, floral side with some hints of peony. It’s an elegant Echezeaux built for earlier enjoyment. What is earlier? Within the first ten years; don’t expect full maturity

(Drink From 2035) – Outstanding (94p) – tasted on 15/11/2022 –

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