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Burgundy Insights from the Winehog

Visit – Domaine Georges Noëllat tasting of the 2013s from Cask

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Domaine George Noëllat is in my view possibly the brightest rising star in Burgundy currently … and Maxime Cheurlin has in three vintages managed more than many vignerons do in a lifetime quality wise.

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Photo: Maxime Cheurlin – Domaine Georges Noëllat

I have followed the domaine in the last two vintages .. and I was very impressed by the quality when I tasted the 2012s at Grands Jours de Bourgogne in March 2014. 

It was however my first visit to Domaine George Noëllat and was generously received by Maxime Cheurlin … the young and very talented winemaker at this fine old Domaine.

A bit of background on Domaine Georges Noëllat

The Noëllat name is well known in Vosne-Romanee and the family is one way or another involved in quite many domaines, as the family also is related to the Jayer family.

The Georges Noëllat domaine originate from the Ernest Louis Eugene Noëllat side of the family .. just as Domaine Cecile Tremblay and Domaine Michel Noëllat1.

Ernest Louis Noëllat was the son of Felix Noellat and the brother of the more well known Charles Felix Noellat1. Ernest Louis Noëllat was married to Eugene Esther Fournier in 19061. The couple had two sons before Ernest-Louis sadly was killed during the first world war. The youngest son was named Georges Roger Noëllat1 (1914 – 1982) and he was the founder of Domaine Georges Noëllat. 

Georges was married to Marcelle Lorillard and they had two children, a son Bernard Noëllat, and a daughter Marie-Thérése Noëllat (1940 – )1. When Georges Noëllat passed away in 1982 his widow took over the Domaine until 1986.

The daughter Marie-Thérése was married to Jacques Cheurlin a Champagne producer – the grandfather of Maxime Cheurlin1. The couple had two children Patrice and Francis Cheurlin (1964 -) , the father of Maxime. Jacques Cheurlin and Marie-Thérése took over after Marcelle Noëllat in 1986 but after their divorce Marie-Thérése took over the running of the estate in 19913. From 1990 to 2009 most of the production was sold to Drouhin and Jadot2. 

The son Francis Cheurlin had two children Maxime and his sister Anne-Cecile Cheurlin. In 2010 Maxime Cheurlin took over the winemaking and the running of the Georges Noëllat estate … i.e. the first vintage in the new era is 2010. Maxime was only 20 years old when he in 2010 began his journey at Domaine Georges Noëllat … very impressive indeed.

Overall impressions of the 2013s from Georges Noëllat

The 2013s from Maxime Cheurlin are delightful wine … following the style and quality offered in the excellent 2012s.

While the 2012s are silky and enchanting the 2013s are more energetic and acidity driven adding new dimensions to the refined and silky style.

The wines are delicate, refined and offer a lot of pleasure and drinkability. The level of transparency is very fine offering a lovely display of terroir in all the wines. They are intense but still lightfooted and effortless in the best possible sense …. both Maxime and the wines are indeed related to the grand master Henri J!

Tasting Notes from tasting on November 4th 2014

All the wines were tasted from either steel tank or cask at the estate on November 4th, 2014 – under the guidance of Maxime Cheurlin.

Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Nuits-Saint-Georges 2013

The Nuits-Saint-Georges village is slightly reduced and a bit difficult to evaluate currently … was moved from cask to tank two weeks previously. In the nose lovely dark fruits … fine somewhat earthy minerality lurking in the background. On the palate lovely transparency and a nice midpalate fruit. Fine energy and nerve from the crisp acidity. A lovely NSG village in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2022) – Good – (87 – 88p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from tank

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Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Vosne-Romanee 2013

The Vosne-Romanee village 2013 from George Noellat is a beauty in the making. In the nose red and dark fruit, lovely Vosne spices and a notch of oak. On the palate fine and delicate fruit – transparent with a lovely verve and energy. Oak a bit forward … moved from cask to tank two weeks previously. Not a big and dense village .. but love the refinement and the silky intensity. Delicate and well balanced.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2022) – Very Good+ – (89 – 90p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from tank

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Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2013

A wine from the best view in Vosne … or to be more precise from the plot located just above and next to the garden of Domaine George Noëllat … overlooking La Tache. This is one of the best location on Les Chaumes and that is indeed showing in this wine. The bouquet is bursting with Vosne spices and minerality … infusing the juicy fruit. On the palate a step up from the village in weight and intensity, but it shares the transparent and delicate expression of pinot fruit. Love the fine expression of terroir and the energetic acidity – this combined with the silky and delicate fruit driven style … gorgeous. A truly lovely Les Chaumes … with a view.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine – (91 – 92p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from tank

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Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Vosne Romanee Petits Monts 2013

Up the slope to the more airy Vosne-Romanee Les Petits Monts. In the nose fine cool fruit … more floral with a delightful play between fruit, oak and minerality. On the palate very delicate and vibrant mineral driven fruit. The refinement and delicacy of the Petits Monts terroir is lifting this wine to another level of filigree pleasure. The fruit is intense without being weighty … love the focus in the precise mineral driven finish. Textbook Les Petits Monts … have a soft spot for this delightful wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from tank

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Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Nuits-Saint-Georges Boudots 2013

Moving over to the dark side ….. to the somewhat more robust Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Boudots. In the nose darker and more weighty fruit … lovely slightly eathy minerality .. slightly reduced not giving a lot of details to work with currently. On the palate more substantial and weighty than the Petits Monts .. but nevertheless quite refined and delicate. A lovely Boudots in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine – (90 – 92p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from cask

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Domaine Georges Noëllat, Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Cras 2013

Ok I may be a bit biased here .. I love the Aux Cras terroir. In the bouquet lovely red and dark berry fruit airy and brought forward by a energetic minerality. On the palate quite rich and very vibrant with a lovely pure and refined midpalate fruit and a playful minerality – so typical of this delightful terroir. Love the energy in this wine … and although it lacks a bit of the filigree refinement of Les Petits Monts … its a gorgeous glass of pinot. 

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from cask

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Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux-Monts 2013

The Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux-Monts is a step up in quality. In the bouquet rich red and dark fruit .. notes of black currant and boysenberries … supported by a intense minerality and a healthy dose of oak. On the palate rich, intense and airy with a wonderful energy from the 2013 acidity. Love the lacy and lavish feel of the fruit .. a delightful glass.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2026) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from cask

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Domaine Georges Noëllat, Echezeaux 2013

Moving just down slope to Les Cruots we find the terroir of the Echezeaux. In the nose more floral and expressive (20% whole cluster) with layers of airy fruit and a quite intense minerality. On the palate more red fruit .. layered, very juicy and energetic. The acidity and the minerality offer a lovely verve and energy and the fruit is intense without being weighty or dense. The finish persistent and refined – A beautifully balanced and complex effort .. from one of my favorite climates within Echezeaux.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2028) – Very Fine – (93 – 94p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from cask

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Domaine Georges Noëllat,  Grands Echezeaux 2013

The Grands Echexeaux is quite a step up in quality from the lovely Echezeaux. In the nose deep layered red and dark berry fruit spiced with hints of cinnamon, violets and coffee. On the palate deeper and more layered fruit … refined but more weighty than the other wines. A classic Grands Echezeaux with a effortless openly knit grandeur. Love the balance and energy here … adore the silky and lavish fruit … build for indulgence, pleasure and magnums!

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2030) – Very Fine+ – (94 – 95p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 from cask

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References & Sources:

  1. Noëllat family tree – by Kenneth McNamara
  2. Domaine Georges Noëllat – by Le Serbet
  3. Domaine Georges Noëllat – Cave de Prestige

Tasting Notes for this producer

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