Visit to Domaine Georges Noëllat – Tasting the 2023s from Cask

I always enjoy tasting at Domaine Georges Noëllat, where Maxime Cheurlin has for more than a decade now produced some memorable wines.

The tasting of the 2023s was cheerful with Maxime in his very best mood … funny tasting that ended with a Jura beer in the chai – Beer d’émotion …

Delaying malo – a note

As previously reported, Maxime Cheurlin has begun cooling his cellar to delay malolactic fermentation and slow elevage in general. Is this practice making a difference?

Based on my experience with his wines from 2017-21, my initial opinion is that the wines with later malo are a bit firmer and more precise. This could perhaps translate eventually into more complexity. They also have a slightly tighter note, promising greater cellaring potential.

Last year I wrote, “The wines have over the years gained focus, and gone is the rather early, forward, blossom and accessibility seen in Cheurlin’s first vintages, replaced by a somewhat tighter, more precise fruit.”

The 2021s, however, had some of the old-era, forward, sexy style found in Maxime’s earlier vintages like 2012 and 2013. Lighter, yes; but oh so sensual and sexy.

Clearly, 2021 and perhaps even 2023 are lighter years after the plethora of hot vintages we had from 2015 on. Lighter can, however, reveal some familiar notes in the wines, including an explosion of Vosne-Romanée spices.

The 2023s from Domaine Georges Noëllat

Notes from the tasting on October 30th, 2024

The Vosne-Romanée 2023 is forward and perfumed. Really on the cool and sexy side, with lovely red fruit and hint of truffles. Love the fine Vosne spices … a lovely village in the making.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Good+ (90p) –

The Beaune Tuvilains 2023 from Maxime is delicate and vivid with a lovely perfumed scent. A delightful wine with a good sappyness and intensity. Looks like this Beaune 1er cru is a big success in 2023 …

(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ – (92p) –

The Beaune Clos de la Mignotte 2023 is the bigger and better of the two Beaune wines. It has a lovely deep mineral complexity, is firmly structured and with the 2023 freshness driving the wine forward … lovely energy.

(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ – (92p) –

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