Visiting Domaine Marc Roy is always a treat, and Alexandrine Roy seems to have found the magic formula again in 2019.
As mentioned in my vintage report, the 2019s can be somewhat on the hot side. But they also have a special energy that compensates for the generous, warm notes frequently found in the vintage.
This is also the case with Domaine Marc Roy, which perhaps nailed the harvest date slightly better in 2018. Yet somehow the energetic, sexy 2019s caress you – and with a big smile to boot.
Some history of the Marc Roy estate
Alexandrine is the fourth generation at the domaine, and she is running the estate with her father, Marc Roy, who is still very active in the vineyards.
They may only produce village wines, but nevertheless this is one of my favourite estates in Burgundy, and it proves that even serious collectors should be able to find great pleasure from a village-level wine.
Alexandrine made her debut as winemaker with the 2003 vintage, and has over the years refined her wines to be some of the most vibrant, delicate Gevrey village wines made today.
I was blown away the first time I tasted her wines, and my tasting each year subsequently confirms my passion for them.
Alexandrine makes four village reds from Gevrey and a Marsannay blanc. All are magnificent in their own way and style. They are all pure, airy and intense, but still quite light-footed and filigreed for these appellations.
So, the same old story at the moment. OK, not quite, as nothing seems to be business as usual this year. Alexandrine is currently having quite a bit of trouble handling her work as winemaker at Phelps Creek in Oregon. Covid-19 is not making this juggling act easy. Time will, however, as always, tell!
Tasting the Marc Roy 2019s
What can I say? Get some: They all have an honest, genuine feel. They are classic, yet also somewhat modern, and quite forward, with the airy freshness characteristic of relatively short elevage. You should know these wines: They are very enjoyable.
The 2019s have a vivid, energetic feel, with concentrated millerandage grapes (shot berries) playing a large role in some of them. But then again, I’m a sucker for millerandage grapes.
The energy comes from the sweet-sour balance in the ripeness of the fruit, with red lingonberries and yellow/orange cloudberries really giving the wines a spark. And while this is a more forgiving vintage than 2018, ripe indeed are the grapes!
Domaine Marc Roy Marsannay Blanc 2019
The Marsannay Blanc has one main issue: the alcohol is around 15%! As mentioned, the energy of the vintage helps mask this issue, yet one fears that the alcohol in the end will overpower. It has energetic fruit with hints of an exotic orchard – lovely white peach – and furthermore a good mineral backbone. Either that, or perhaps it’s a kick of alcohol in the finish! The Marc Roy plot is in Marsannay’s Les Champs Perdrix, located at the southern end of Couchey at the top of the slope. I would drink this quite young – I think…
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ (86-87p) – Tasted 10/07/2020 from CASK
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2019
The Gevrey Vieilles Vignes is a classic: 80-year-old vines, quite fresh and energetic for the vintage. It has, as usual, a slight hint of iron from the red clay soil, but is very airy, fresh, vivacious and enjoyable. The tension from the cloud- and lingonberries really gives me a craving for a second glass.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-90p) – Tasted 10/07/2020 from CASK –
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin La Justice 2019
La Justice vineyard is located just behind the estate in the large alluvial fan from the Combe de Lavaut. This is a mineral, expressive wine, hedonistic, and with a lovely millerandage feel. It has nice saline minerality whose enjoyable texture really shows the best sides of downtown Gevrey! This has a delightful emotional balance.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good+ (89-90p) – Tasted 10/07/2020 from CASK –
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