Visit to Domaine Thomas-Collardot – Tasting the 2022s

Domaine Thomas-Collardot was one of my favourite discoveries in 2018. It’s a relatively new, small estate making interesting, vivid, and pure wines in Puligny-Montrachet.

That was now more than five years ago, and in the meantime, this domaine has given me with a great deal of pleasure in different restaurants.

Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu run the estate; they are lovely people, fun and relaxed, reminding me of the times when Burgundy was less stressed and commercial. It is always a pleasure to visit them.

The Thomas-Collardot wines are generous without being opulent, and they give a clear expression of their individual terroirs. There is quite some difference in character between the vineyards below Puligny-Montrachet and the Blagny 1er cru, with its special, cool note, and hence another place in the culinary world.

The wines offer pleasurable drinking when young, and are for medium-term cellaring – between five and ten years. I do not see these wines improving by being cellared for 20 or 30 years, but who knows? The first vintage was only in 2016.

For some background regarding the estate, check out my articles regarding the 2017 vintage. The 2016 article includes a small presentation of the estate – see this article.

The 2022s at Domaine Thomas-Collardot

Thomas-Collardot has done well in 2022, a vintage that can be on the generous side. They have succeeded in keeping the wines cool and mineral, and not letting the generosity take over.

This does raise some questions: How will the 2022s develop? The acidity is adequate, yet somewhat limited, which could lead to greater richness as the wines mature. Thus the issue of serving temperature is also raised.

Serving temperature is one of my important recommendations to white-wine drinkers, as global warming often means more and more generous wines. My advice: Serve them cold and let them warm in the glass. Start at 5 Celsius, and you will get greater liveliness and minerality in the glass.

Take this for what it’s worth. The wine will warm quickly in any case.

Tasting the 2022s from Domaine Thomas-Collardot

I had the opportunity to taste the full line-up of 2022s, from the Bourgogne Aligoté to the top village lieu-dit Les Enseignères and the two 1ers crus, Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny and Les Folatières.

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Bourgogne Aligoté 2022

The Bourgogne Aligoté is quite a civilized wine; a well-behaved aligoté that’s harmonious and refined. The vintage produced some rich aligotés, but the natural acidity of this variety is a good match for the year. This is a nice glass for lighter food – salads or white meat or fish.

(Drink from 2024) – Good – (87p)

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2022

The Hautes Côtes de Beaune is a new wine for the Winehog. The cooler climate in the Hautes Côtes was a blessing in 2022, adding to this wine’s freshness and liveliness. Perhaps not so complex, but still, a lovely glass for an aperitif or a light lunch. It leaves you with a clear understanding of the estate style. What more could I want? I prefer this to the aligoté, to be honest!

(Drink from 2024) – Good – (87p) –

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Bourgogne Les Petits Poiriers 2022

The Bourgogne Les Petits Poiriers is a delightful glass from a plot below the main road (D974). It’s lively, with a nice Puligny tone. While not hugely complex, this delivers the goods in minerality and liveliness. A terrific wine for lighter fish dishes.

(Drink from 2024) – Very Good – (88p) –

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Bourgogne La Plante des Champs 2022

The Bourgogne La Plante is more complex and a bit deeper fruit-wise; richer, but also more vivid. With its beautiful liveliness, I simply find this better, although stylistically similar in its delicacy. This is a top-end Bourgogne blanc.

(Drink from 2024) – Very Good – (88-89p) –

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Puligny-Montrachet Les Houlières 2022

This is close to the route departementale, south of the village below Les Tremblots. It is a somewhat more vivid, vibrant wine – it is after all a village – and it shows a classic expression of Puligny terroir. Nice citrus-infused minerality (the house style) gives the wine a vivacious freshness, even in a generous year like 2022.

(Drink from 2028) – Very Good – (89-90p) –

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Puligny Montrachet Nosroyes 2022

The Nosroyes is a step up, and damn! This is a lovely wine, with vivid fruit and delicate minerality. It doesn’t quite match my beloved Enseignères, but the refined delicacy of this wine is a hedonistic treat. This is what 2022 can deliver in spades: an almost silky ripeness.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good – (90p) –

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny 2022

The Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny is a 1er cru – not surprisingly from the Blagny area – located above the southern part of Puligny-Montrachet. A cool area, it is a good match for the ’22 vintage. This wine is more suitable for richer dishes such as lobster, and perhaps even gratineed oysters or grilled seafood. It is quite cool for a 2022, and also controlled. While it cannot match the liveliness and complexity of Folatieres or Enseignères, with the right food, it could be magic!

(Drink from 2032) – Fine – (92p) –

Domaine Thomas-Collardot Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères 2022

The Puligny Enseignères is, as always, a wonderfully balanced and airy wine. It has an expressive, mineral character that is vivacious, with tremendous tightness and concentration. What a wine! As always, one of the very best Puligny villages. This has a special place in my heart – could it even be better?

(Drink from 2030) – Fine – (91p) –

Tasting Notes for this producer

Related articles

• Visit to Domaine Thomas-Collardot – Tasting the 2022s
  Domaine Thomas-Collardot was one of my favourite discoveries in 2018. It’s a relatively new, small estate making interesting, vivid, and pure wines in Puligny-Montrachet. That was now more than five years ago, and in the meantime, this domaine has given me with a great deal of pleasure in different restaurants. Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu run ...
• A Casual Visit to Domaine Thomas-Collardot
  Visiting estates is becoming more and more a question of scheduling and advance planning. It seems like the casual visits are getting rarer, as people are getting increasingly stressed by the focus on their daily routine. This is understandable, yet I do like the spirit of a quick, casual tasting and chat. In that spirit, last ...
• Terroir Insight: Domaine Thomas-Collardot Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères
  Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères is a vineyard producing many different wines, from the elusive and expensive Domaine d’Auvenay to some very small, interesting cuvees from new and exciting producers. One of my favourite wines from the Enseignères vineyard comes from Domaine Thomas-Collardot. About the Thomas-Collardot estate Jacqueline Collardot is the owner and winemaker of this 2.5-hectare estate located ...
• Puligny Les Enseignères: Just below the grands crus
  Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignères caught my attention back in the mid-1990s when Coche-Dury acquired a piece of this now-illustrious village vineyard. Les Enseignères is, for non-collectors, a relatively unknown vineyard, located just below Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet. While producing tremendous wines, it is perhaps somewhat over the top to claim that this vineyard is near grand cru quality-wise. It ...
• Visit Domaine Thomas-Collardot – tasting the 2018s from cask
  Domaine Thomas-Collardot was one of my favourite discoveries in 2018 – a relatively new and very small estate making interesting, vivid and pure wines in Puligny-Montrachet. Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu have done it again in the warm and sunny 2018 vintage: They have managed to produce fresh and vivid wines from this hot year. ...