Visit to Domaine Berthelemot: A View on 2022

There are many new, high-quality producers in Burgundy, and one of these is Domaine Berthelemot, a large, relatively recent estate in Meursault.

My colleague and friend Karine Chang (a wine agent mainly covering the Asian market) invited me to a tasting at Domaine Berthelemot to stimulate my curiosity, I guess. She succeeded, as she has many times before.

I have limited time to write long articles, although Domaine Berthelemot could well deserve one. But the number of reports awaiting publication is too large currently, so I will focus on the most interesting of the wines from Thomas Berthelemot.

Domaine Berthelemot is a family business; mother Brigitte Berthelemot started the estate in 2006, and son Thomas is now in charge. The estate is organically certified, and looking into biodynamics – you know the drill.

Even though the history of Domaine Berthelemot is quite recent, family character is at the heart of the project. Brigitte Berthelemot, who created the domaine in 2006, was inspired by one of her uncles, a winegrower in Mâconnais; and also follows in the footsteps of her father, who was passionate about plants, soil, and subsoil. Thomas Berthelemot, her son, joined the estate in 2017, and is giving it new impetus. How far we have come, thanks to the passion of Brigitte Berthelemot.

(From the domaine website)

I sampled some interesting wines in the Berthelemot line-up last November 10.

Domaine Berthelemot Meursault 2022

The village Meursault is a blend of Les Vireuils and Les Narvaux, a combination that is well-documented on the website. These were the last plots harvested in 2022, yet it’s still a vivid wine. While 2022 can be on the generous side, this is (despite the relatively late harvest) showing a fine mineral note.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (88p) –

Check out the domaine website documentation of the next wine: Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons, a village lieu-dit located below Les Referts. This is an interesting terroir.

The vines

The climat Les Levrons totals 6 hectares 56 ares. It is on a downhill slope in Puligny-Montrachet next to Meursault.

Levrons was a diminutive in the middle ages for hare (lievre), of which there are many in the area.

The soil is deep in brown limestone with some banks of marl.

Our plot(s) total 0.6040 ha, planted in 1947. This is our oldest chardonnay vineyard.

Domaine Berthelemot Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons 2022

This vineyard was planted in 1947 in the area below Referts. The wine has a cool minerality along with delicate freshness; pure indeed, with slight reduction. Its salinity is in the foreground, carried by an elegant stance.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (90p) –

Domaine Berthelemot Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres 2022

Delicate, rich, and vivid, this is on the generous side, but without getting flabby (a potential risk in 2022). An elegant wine, its fruit is delicate yet with good density. While lacking the ultimate in acidity and structure, it has certain hedonistic qualities.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (90p) –

Domaine Berthelemot Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 2022

This is a classic story of why humour at a wine tasting should be avoided: I was (trying) to joke about the vast area of Morgeot, and it fell flat, not surprisingly (bad Danish style and humour). This version, however, comes from a good part of the vineyard – the Abbaye de Morgeot. With delicate fruit, it is intense and a bit on the dense side. But it has good energy and shows the enjoyable side of terroir.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (91p) –

Domaine Berthelemot Corton-Charlemagne 2022

The Corton-Charlie is refined and vivid, supported by a good oak choice of 40% new Chassin barrels. The wine is showing well indeed, with the Pernand-Vergelesses side smiling through. I like the good acidity (for the vintage) and the slight reduction that always, or at least often, shows the Pernand side to advantage.

(Drink From 2034) – Very Fine – (93-94p) –

And a few reds

Domaine Berthelemot Pommard Noizon 2022

The first red is a Pommard Noizon from the Beaune side of Pommard. Vividly fruity, and in a lively style, there is good balance between red and dark fruit. Planted in 1924 and 1950, the old vines at definitely in play here. The use of 25% whole clusters help; I love the depth and purity of the fruit.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good – (90p) –

Domaine Berthelemot Vosne-Romanée 2022

In reality a surprise: delicate, and with really delightful fruit, this is a gorgeous village with nothing overdone and the extraction almost ideal. Many Vosne villages are overdone by vignerons not from Vosne, sadly.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Good – (90p) –

Important

Only wines of great interest, and mainly those that are recommended, are included in this tasting report.

Steen Öhman

Chief Tasting Officer