Visit to Domaine du Puy de l’Ours -Tasting the 2022s

The Grands Jours de Bourgogne sometimes lead to the discovery of a relatively unknown producer. This year I found an interesting – but also different – estate with some delicious wines: Domaine du Puy de l’Ours.

It’s a domaine in Savigny-lès-Beaune and, not surprisingly, Becky Wasserman & Co. is its agent in many countries. I normally don’t get mixed in the trade, but I have to say that Becky’s sons Paul and Peter are doing a tremendous job – bravo! – for young and unknown producers. They need someone who has tasted pinot noir more than once.

The summary (from the Becky Wasserman website):

• Location: Savigny-lès-Beaune, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy
• Varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
• Viticulture: Organic (in official conversion)
• Vinification (whites): Whole cluster pressing, 24- to 48-hour cold settling, aging for 9-12 months in 228L and 400L barrels, occasional batonnage.
• Vinification (reds): 0-50% whole cluster, light daily pump-overs and just two foot punch-downs at the end of fermentation, aged 10-12 months in barrels. No fining, occasional light filtration, minimal SO2 addition only if needed.

These nice people make six wines each year, three reds and three whites, including a white made from pinot noir – a blanc de noir! This sort of sets the tone for the rest of the wines.

A bit about the young people

Domaine du Puy de L’Ours is the brainchild of a young couple who have inherited some fine and interesting vineyards, and a nice estate, in the very core of Savigny: Jean Orsoni and Juliette Puyperoux. In fact, the estate name comes from a combination of their two last names – quite inventive, as are the lovely labels designed by (guess who) Louise Lachaux. The couple decided in 2020 to go all in with the family vineyards and estate, and they took back five hectares of vines.

Domaine du Puy de l’Ours is a young estate; its first vintage released was 2021, from which it produced elegant, fine, and charmingly extreme wines.

The vines are organically farmed and the winemaking is low intervention and minimalistic. Sulphur levels are low, and so is the use of new oak.

The domaine produces six wines, including the afore-mentioned blanc de noir, a white Côte de Beaune, a white Savigny-lès-Beaune and several Savigny reds. They are remarkably interesting, with an airy touch. It was enough to send the Mini Cooper south to Savigny-lès-Beaune.

The wines

White

• L’Absurde – blanc de noirs (0.02 ha planted in 1968)
• Côte de Beaune Les Monsnières – (1.49 ha planted in 1992 and 2015/2016)
• Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Goudelettes (0.33 ha planted in the 1990s)

Red

• Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos Des Godeaux (1.61 ha planted in 1968)
• Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Follettes ( 0.78 ha planted in 1960 and 1979)
• Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières (0.78 ha planted in 1970)

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The wines

The wines are pure, transparent, and with personality – an edge one could call it. They are from relatively unknown terroirs, and a wine like the blanc de noir is a fine way to get on the map. These are effortless and energetic offerings, and absolutely textbook hedonistic Burgundies.

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Domaine du Puy de l’Ours l’Absurde Blanc de Noir 2022

L’Absurde is an exciting wine with quite a substantial backbone. It’s darker and more serious than chardonnay, with lively intensity. This is a kick, and a wine that will puzzle a lot of blind tasters. First and foremost, however, it’s a delightful wine that will lift almost all light lunch dishes, from fish to pasta. I will not mention vongole again, but also – that. Hedonistic.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (89p) –  

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Domaine du Puy de l’Ours Côte de Beaune Les Monsnières 2022

The Côte de Beaune is a more traditional chardonnay: classic and intense, with good minerality and nice acidity. While both delicate and intense, it’s currently a bit short on the finish. This has good appeal, but lacks the pizazz of the blanc de noir. More a vin de soif, it’s borderline hedonistic.

(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (87-88p) –  

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