Thibaud Clerget has been busy the last couple of years, and he has now completed a new office building at his domaine in Pommard. More importantly, he has expanded his estate with a big share of the former Domaine Régis Rossignol-Changarnier estate that he’s divided with Arnaud Baillot. This expansion takes the Clerget holdings to 10.5 ha.
I have followed Thibaud Clerget since his start with the 2015 vintage, and have seen a gradual and continual improvement in the quality and precision of his wines.
Improvements leading to even higher quality
While the grapes in hot years are often riper, the winemaking is not necessarily easier, as maintaining lightness and coolness during harvest and vinification requires experience.
I was initially therefore slightly surprised with the fine results from Thibaud Clerget in his first vintage, 2015. Yes, some of the wines were a bit on the hot side, but in general, their balance was beautifully preserved.
Tasting the 2016s and 2017s revealed real improvements compared with the ’15s. These wines showed the potential of this fine estate, and also Thibaud’s talent.
Then came the 2018s, and despite the fact that it was hotter than in 2015, his ’18 wines were vivid and fresh, showing fine details and energy. What a result!
The 2019s had even more to offer: an inherent energy and depth, and complexity that ran through the wines as a strong source of hedonistic pleasure. Thibaud nourished this quality and fully expressed it in his ’19s.
The 2020s, however, were a real surprise – as at many other estates – with their coolness and classical stance. That vintage was the perfect opportunity for Thibaud to express his terroirs.
So now we have his 2021s in the glass. It was a problematic vintage in many ways, first, with serious frost, and then all kinds of sanitary issues like oidium and mildiou. It was certainly a vintage that separated the men from the boys.
Regardless of the challenges, Thibaud has conquered the obstacles and made some very elegant 2021s. Clearly, yields and overall quantity suffered, but quality is king, and there are some very good wines here from 2021. And so, to the vivd, refined Clerget wines.
Points and ratings: Thibaud Clerget have agreed to participate in the ”remove the point” trial here at Winehog. The purpose is test if we can refocus the evaluation of the wine to the lyrics and the emotional scale. In this case the link to the old point scale is still possible … but not directly visible on the page.
The 2021 reds, tasted October 21
Domaine Y. Clerget Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a light delight. It has a transparent, crystalline expression – clearly a big change from the concentrated 2020 and 2019. But this is a gorgeous vin de soif; classic pinot, and light, but I adore it.
(Drink from 2023) – Good+ – Tasted 22/10/2022 –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 2021
The Volnay is equally brilliant in structure, but has more substance, despite being significantly lighter than in previous vintages. The cool style of the 2021s gives this wine a classical touch, with raspberry notes. It’s delicate, vivid, fresh, and a hedonistic treat.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – Tasted 22/10/2022 –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle 2021
The Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle is one of my favourites of the vintage from Thibaud. It’s an explosion of energy and cool fruit, yet with elegance, detail, and delicacy. A step up in intensity and energy, this is a magnificent wine, and a vin d’émotion.
(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ – Tasted 22/10/2022 –
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