Thibaud Clerget is continuing to produce impressive and ever-more-refined wines. The 2022s are quite stellar.
He has expanded his estate with a big share of the former Domaine Régis Rossignol-Changarnier estate that he divided with Arnaud Baillot. This expansion takes the Clerget holdings to 10.5 hectares.
I have followed Thibaud Clerget since his start with the 2015 vintage, and have seen a gradual and continual improvement in the quality and precision of his wines.
Improvements leading to even higher quality
While the grapes in hot years are often riper, the winemaking is not necessarily easier, as maintaining lightness and coolness during harvest and vinification requires experience.
I was therefore initially mildly surprised with the fine results from Thibaud Clerget in his first vintage, 2015. Yes, some of the wines were a bit on the hot side, but in general, their balance was beautifully preserved.
Tasting the 2016s and 2017s revealed real improvements compared with the ’15s. These wines showed the potential of this fine estate, and also Thibaud’s talent.
Then came the 2018s, and despite the fact that it was hotter than in 2015, his ’18 wines were vivid and fresh, showing fine details and energy. What a result!
The 2019s had even more to offer: an inherent energy and depth, and complexity that ran through the wines as a source of hedonistic pleasure. Thibaud nourished this quality and fully expressed it in his ’19s.
The 2020s, however, were a real surprise – as at many other estates – with their coolness and classical stance. That vintage was the perfect opportunity for Thibaud to express his terroirs.
Regardless of the challenges in 2021, Thibaud conquered the obstacles and made some very elegant wines. Clearly, yields and overall quantity suffered, but quality is king, and there are some very good wines here from 2021.
The 2022s are surprisingly lively and enjoyable, although the acidity is moderate and the growing season started out hot. Rain before the harvest must have had a miraculous effect on the grapes, as the wines display a unique freshness and energy, considering the hot summer and the resulting low acidity.
The 2022s as a whole feel vivid, and this is the case in spades with Thibaud’s wines.
The 2022s, tasted November 9
Domaine Y. Clerget Bourgogne Aligoté 2022
The aligoté is made in two barrels: one is new, hence the wine has quite an oak impression for an aligoté. Nevertheless, it works well, with quite a powerful mid-palate. Despite the power, somehow it works.
(Drink from 2024) – Good+ (87p)- Tasted 09/11/2023 – 
Domaine Y. Clerget Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a delightful little wine. It has more weight than the 2021, but with a lovely, crystalline expression that brings a smile to your face. It’s a vin de soif with a nice expression of terroir (limoneux). The oak touch gives lovely balance. I really like this cuvée.
(Drink from 2024) – Good+ (87p)- Tasted 09/11/2023 –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 2022
The Volnay is a delightful wine; 15 barrels of joy. It has good depth, and ripe, delicate, mid-palate fruit. Charmingly seductive, this has fine drinkability and is a delicious example of Volnay. What can I say? A treat!
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 09/11/2023 – 
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle 2022
The Carelle sous la Chapelle is usually one of my favourites chez Clerget, and so it proves in 2022. It shows delicate yet intense fruit, and is vivid, with good energy and tension. The 2022s have charm and drinkability; this is a true vin d’émotion.
(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ (91p) Tasted 09/11/2023 – 
You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.
- A Vin Vif - fresh, energetic and with a light appearance